【正文】 ensionally stable. The structure of the fiber contributes to a shrinking and felting reaction during processing, use and care. This is due, in part, to the scale structure of the fiber. When subjected to heat, moisture, and agitation, the scales tend to pull together and move toward the fiber tip. This property is noticeable in yarns and fabrics and is responsible for both felting and relaxation shrinkage.羊毛纖維沒有尺寸穩(wěn)定。纖維的結(jié)構(gòu)有助于收縮和縮反應(yīng)在加工過程中，使用和保養(yǎng)。這是因?yàn)椋谀撤N程度上，纖維的鱗片結(jié)構(gòu)。當(dāng)受到熱，濕度，和攪拌，天平傾向于一起拉向光纖尖。此屬性是明顯的紗線和織物和負(fù)責(zé)氈縮和松弛收縮。第六課 Silk絲綢　　For approximately 3000 years China successfully held the secret of silk and sericulture and held a virtual monopoly on the silk industry. About AD 300 Japan learned the secret of raising silkworms and reeling the filaments from the cocoons.約3000年，中國成功舉辦了絲綢和養(yǎng)蠶的秘密持在絲綢行業(yè)壟斷。約公元300年日本學(xué)習(xí)養(yǎng)蠶繅絲的絲繭的秘密。　　　Throughout history, silk has maintained a position of great prestige and is considered a luxury fiber. It is often called the queen of fibers Perhaps one of the most important contributions silk has made in the history of textiles is that it was responsible for investigation into the possible production of manmade fibers. Scientists observed how the silkworm spun the fibers and believed that people could duplicate the art.縱觀歷史，絲綢一直保持著巨大的顯赫地位，被認(rèn)為是一個(gè)奢侈的纖維。它通常被稱為“纖維皇后”也許是最重要的貢獻(xiàn)之一的絲綢紡織品的歷史是負(fù)責(zé)為人造纖維的生產(chǎn)調(diào)查。科學(xué)家們觀察到，蠶紡纖維和相信人們可以復(fù)制藝術(shù)?！　ilk is one of the strongest natural fibers used in creating textile products. It has a tenacity of to grams per denier when dry. Wet strength is about 80 to 85 percent of the dry strength. Silk has good elasticity and moderate elongation, when it is dry, the elongation varies from 10 to25 percent。 when wet, silk will elongate as much as 33 to 35 percent. At 2 percent elongation the fiber has a 92 percent elastic recovery.絲綢是最強(qiáng)的天然纖維用于制造紡織品。濕強(qiáng)度是約80至百分之85的干強(qiáng)度。蠶絲具有良好的彈性和適度的延伸，當(dāng)它是干燥的，從10到25 %的伸長率的變化；當(dāng)濕，絲伸長多達(dá)33到百分之35。在百分之2伸長率下的纖維具有百分之92的彈性恢復(fù)?！　ilk has medium resiliency. Creases will hang out relatively well, but not so quickly or pletely as for wool.蠶絲具有介質(zhì)彈性。折痕將比較好，但不太快或完全作為羊毛?！　he density of specific gravity of silk is cited as to grams per cubic centimeter, depending on the resource used. Because of the nature of silk, it is possible that the density varies among fibers as well as between the various types of moths that form the fiber. Another source of variation may be due to methods used in determining density. In any case, the density results in the formation of lightweight but strong filaments, yarns and fabrics.，這取決于所用的資源。由于絲綢的性質(zhì)，它是可能的，密度不同的纖維以及飛蛾，形成的各種纖維之間。另一個(gè)來源的變化可能是由于在密度測定方法。在任何情況下，在輕而堅(jiān)固的細(xì)絲，形成紗線和織物密度的結(jié)果?！　ilk has a relatively high standard moisture regain of 11 percent. At saturation the regain is 25 to 35 percent. This relatively high absorption is helpful in applying dyes and finishes to silk。 however, unlike many fibers, silk also absorbs impurities such as metal salts. These contaminants tend to damage silk by weakening the fiber or causing actual ruptures to occur when the fabric is not handled properly.蠶絲具有相對高的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)回潮率百分之11。飽和回潮率是25到百分之35。這種相對高的吸收是在應(yīng)用染料和完成對絲綢有幫助；然而，不像許多纖維，蠶絲也吸收如金屬鹽雜質(zhì)。這些污染物會通過削弱纖維或造成實(shí)際斷裂時(shí)的織物處理不當(dāng)發(fā)生絲損傷。　　Silk will ignite and continue to burn when there is another source of flame. After removal from the source, it will sputter and eventually extinguish itself. It leaves a crisp, brittle ash and gives off an order like that of burning hair or feathers. It burns similarly to wool.絲綢會點(diǎn)燃并繼續(xù)燃燒時(shí)火焰的另一個(gè)來源。從源頭上去除后，它將濺射終將消亡。它的葉子脆，脆灰和發(fā)出像燃燒的頭發(fā)或羽毛的命令。它燃燒同樣羊毛?！　ike other protein fibers, silk has a lower thermal or heat conductivity than cellulosic fibers. This factor, coupled with certain methods of construction, creates fabrics that tend to be warmer than parable fabrics of cellulosic fibers. 像其他的蛋白質(zhì)纖維，蠶絲具有較低的熱或熱傳導(dǎo)率比纖維素纖維。這一因素，加上一定的施工方法，創(chuàng)造物，往往比纖維素纖維與織物的溫暖?！　ilk is damaged by strong alkalies and will dissolve in heated caustic soda ( NaOH )。 however, silk reacts more slowly than wool, and frequently the identity of the two fibers can be determined by the speed of solubility in NaOH. Weak alkalies such as soap and ammonia cause little or no damage to silk unless they remain in contact with the fiber for a long time.絲綢是由強(qiáng)大的堿受損，將溶解在加熱的燒堿（NaOH）；然而，絲綢的反應(yīng)比羊毛更慢，而且經(jīng)常對兩種纖維的身份可以用NaOH溶解速度確定。弱堿如肥皂和氨導(dǎo)致很少或根本沒有損壞絲綢除非他們保持很長一段時(shí)間與纖維接觸?！　?Silk protein, like wool, can be deposed by strong mineral acids. Medium concentrations of hydrochloric acid will dissolve silk, and moderate concentrations of other mineral acids cause fiber contraction and shrinkage, The molecular arrangement in silk permits rapid absorption of acids but tends to hold the acid molecules, so they are difficult to remove. This accounts for some of the acid damage to fibroin that does not occur to keratin. Organic acids do not damage silk and are used in some finishing processes. Some authorities maintain that the scroop of silk—a rustling or crunching sound which used to be considered a natural characteristic, is actually developed by exposure to organic acids.絲蛋白，如羊毛，可以通過強(qiáng)無機(jī)酸分解。鹽酸介質(zhì)中的濃度溶解絲，和中等濃度的其他礦物酸引起纖維的收縮和收縮，在絲的分子排列允許酸吸收迅速但往往把酸分子，所以他們很難去除。這解釋了一些要素，不發(fā)生蛋白酸損傷。有機(jī)酸不損壞絲綢和使用一些整理工藝。一些權(quán)威人士認(rèn)為，silka沙沙或運(yùn)算，曾被認(rèn)為是一個(gè)自然的聲音特點(diǎn)的吱吱嘎嘎的響聲，實(shí)際上是由暴露于有機(jī)酸?！　?Silk has been the queen of fabrics for centuries. As in the past, it is still used for luxury fabrics and for highfashion items. It is frequently considered to be a sensuous fabric because of its smooth and soft feel, or hand.絲綢是幾個(gè)世紀(jì)以來織物的女王。在過去，它仍然是用于高檔面料、高檔時(shí)裝。這是經(jīng)常被認(rèn)為是一個(gè)感性的織物由于其光滑和柔軟的感覺，或手?！　?Dry cleaning is the preferred method of care for silk fabrics and products. If handled carefully, however, silk fabrics can be laundered. A mild soap or synthetic detergent in warm, not hot, water should be used, and minimal handling is remended. Thorough rinsing is required, and the best method for extracting water is to roll the garment in a towel and then hang it in a cool place, out of the sun, to dry. Tumble drying should not be attempted unless a c