【正文】 pun into yarns or even felted into fabric. There is no evidence to support the theory that wool was the first fiber to be processed into fabric, but it seems certain that, as a part of the skin, wool was used for covering and protection by prehistoric peoples long before yarns and fabrics were made.羊毛的早期歷史失傳了。沒(méi)有證據(jù)支持，羊毛被加工成的織物的第一光纖的理論，但似乎肯定的是，作為皮膚的一部分，羊毛被用于覆蓋和保護(hù)的史前人類(lèi)早在紗線和織物進(jìn)行了。 it was unearthed in archeological digs in Germany. Danish sites have yielded excellent fragments of early wool fabrics dated about 1300 to 1000 BC. These fabrics are rough and coarse and contain considerable wild sheep hair.毛織物最早的碎片已經(jīng)被發(fā)現(xiàn)在埃及，可能是因?yàn)楸ｕr品質(zhì)的氣候。最早的羊毛織物的發(fā)現(xiàn)在歐洲已經(jīng)于約公元前1500 ；這是出土的考古發(fā)掘，在德國(guó)。這些織物粗糙，含有大量的野生綿羊毛。盡管植物纖維可能被用于紡紗和織布的第一，在動(dòng)物毛皮纖維最早的人穿的服裝類(lèi)型。羊毛每年向世界供應(yīng)量的大約500千萬(wàn)磅。羊毛的產(chǎn)量不能滿(mǎn)足世界的需要。　　 The qualities of different wools vary greatly. The merino sheep of Australia, South America and South Africa produce very free and soft wool. The quality of wool from these sources depends upon the conditions and heritage of the sheep. Port Philip wool is the finest in Australia and is used to produce the highest quality woolen and worsted fabrics.不同品種的羊毛在質(zhì)量上存在較大的差異。從這些來(lái)源的羊毛的質(zhì)量取決于羊的飼養(yǎng)條件和品種?！　? Wool from South Africa is very wavy with a good white color and is used for good quality worsted and woolen goods. South American wool is usually of lower quality than wool from Australia or South Africa. Merino wool has been successfully raised in Germany, France, Spain and the United States and is of high quality.南非產(chǎn)的羊毛是一個(gè)好的白色非常波浪和用于優(yōu)質(zhì)的精紡呢絨。美利奴羊毛已在德國(guó)，成功地提高了法國(guó)，西班牙和美國(guó)是高質(zhì)量的。綿羊接種抵抗疾病，浸泡在化學(xué)物質(zhì)來(lái)保護(hù)他們免受昆蟲(chóng)，除非在草地，設(shè)計(jì)生產(chǎn)出健康的動(dòng)物飼料。剪羊毛是羊毛或羊毛和質(zhì)量夾毛被，這是從宰羊羊毛被認(rèn)為是優(yōu)越的隱藏　　 Shearing is currently done very rapidly with power shears. A good worker can pletely shear a sheep in less than one minute, sometimes as short as 20 seconds. Recent developments in Australia have led to a process called chemical or biological shearing. The animal is fed a chemical similar to that used in the treatment of cancer, which cause the hair to fall out within two weeks. Within very short time following the loss of the hair, it starts to grow again, and the sheep suffer no damage. Fibers obtained in this way are slightly longer than those sheared from the animal, and there appears to be less physical damage to the fibers.剪切當(dāng)前功率迅速完成剪。澳大利亞最近的事態(tài)發(fā)展導(dǎo)致的過(guò)程被稱(chēng)為化學(xué)或生物剪。頭發(fā)的損失后，在很短的時(shí)間內(nèi)，它又開(kāi)始生長(zhǎng)，和羊不受損害?！　? Usually shearing is done once a year in the early spring, and the fleece is removed in one piece, rolled, packed into bags, and shipped to the nearest processing center. Pulled wool is removed from the hide by one of two methods. It may be treated with a depilatory that loosens the fiber and permits it to be pulled away from the skin without damaging the hide, or it Can be loosened by the action of bacteria on the root end of the fiber. Pulled wool is usually mixed with fleece or clip wool before processing into yarns and fabrics.通常剪切是一年做一次在早春，和羊毛是一塊，刪除卷，包裝成袋，并運(yùn)到最近的加工中心。它可以用脫毛，松開(kāi)纖維和允許它被拉離皮膚無(wú)損傷隱藏處理，或者可以通過(guò)細(xì)菌對(duì)纖維的根端動(dòng)作放松。　　 Preliminary grading of wool fibers is done while they are still in the fleece, because this step is important in determining cost. Factors used in determining the grade of wool include fiber fineness or diameter and length, the age of the animal, the natural color, the breed of the sheep, and the condition under which the animal lived. After grading, fleeces are shipped to the mill, where they are prepared for further processing into yarns and fabrics.初步的羊毛纖維的分級(jí)是還在羊毛做的，因?yàn)檫@一步確定成本是很重要的。評(píng)分后，羊毛被運(yùn)送到工廠，在那里他們準(zhǔn)備進(jìn)一步加工成紗線和織物。大多數(shù)其它不同濃度的無(wú)機(jī)酸。第五課 Structure and Properties of Wool羊毛纖維的結(jié)構(gòu)和性能　　 Under the microscopic observation, the length of the wool fiber shows a scale structure. The size of the scale varies from very small to paratively broad and large. As many as 700 scales are found in 1 cm of fine wool, whereas coarse wool may have as few as 275 per cm. Fine wool does not have as clear and distinct scales as coarse wool, but they can be identified under high magnification.顯微觀察下，羊毛纖維的長(zhǎng)度顯示了一個(gè)規(guī)模結(jié)構(gòu)。多達(dá)700的尺度是羊毛的1厘米，而粗毛可能為每厘米275少?！　? A cross section of wool shows three distinct parts to the fiber. The outer layer, called cuticle, is posed of the scales. These scales are somewhat horny and irregular in shape, and they overlap, with the top pointing towards the tip of the fiber。 this extends toward the center from the cuticle layer. Cortical cells are long and spindleshaped and provide fiber strength and elasticity. The cortex accounts for approximately 90 percent of the fiber mass. In the center of the fiber is the medulla. The size of the medulla varies and in fine fibers may be invisible. This is the area through which food reached the fiber during growth, and it contains pigment that gives color to fibers.羊毛的橫截面顯示三個(gè)不同部分的纖維。這些鱗片形狀有點(diǎn)角質(zhì)和不規(guī)則的，和他們的重疊，與頂端指向尖端的纖維；他們是類(lèi)似魚(yú)鱗。皮質(zhì)細(xì)胞長(zhǎng)梭形和提供纖維的強(qiáng)度和彈性。在光纖的中心是髓質(zhì)。這是通過(guò)食品達(dá)到纖維在生長(zhǎng)過(guò)程中的區(qū)域，它包含顏料，使色纖維。 medium wool from to cm。大多數(shù)當(dāng)局已經(jīng)確定，；；長(zhǎng)（粗）。 whereas medium wool averages 24 to 34 microns and coarse wool about 40 microns. Some wool fibers are exceptionally stiff and coarse。細(xì)的纖維，如羊毛具有約15至17微米的平均寬度；而介質(zhì)羊毛平均為24至34微米和40微米的粗羊毛。　　 The wool fiber cross section may be nearly circular, but most wool fibers tend to be slightly elliptical or oval in shape. Wool fibers have a natural crimp, a builtin waviness. The crimp increases the elasticity and elongation properties of the fiber and also aids in yarn manufacturing. It is threedimensional in character。羊毛纖維具有天然卷曲，內(nèi)置的波紋。它是三維的性質(zhì)的；換句話說(shuō)，它不僅將以上及中心軸的下面也向右移動(dòng)的軸左。細(xì)中羊毛往往比很粗纖維較多的光澤。　　 The color of the natural wool fiber depends on the breed of sheep. Most wool, after scouring, is a yellowishwhite or ivory color. Some fibers may be gray, black, tan or brown.的天然羊毛纖維的顏色取決于羊的品種。一些纖維可能是灰色的，黑色的，褐色或棕色。 when wet, it drops to to g/d. Compared with many other fibers, wool is weak, and this weakness restricts the kinds of yarns and fabric constructions that can be used satisfactorily. However, if yarns and fabrics of optimum weight and type are produced, the enduse product