【正文】 f the textile machinery enlarged the production base.的鋸片式軋棉機(jī)的發(fā)明使可能的短纖維的開發(fā)，興盛于美國北卡羅萊納州和弗吉尼亞州。早期的機(jī)器可以用在只有長纖維棉花。此外，棉纖維要從種子中分離出來的，他們依靠?！　ntil relatively recent times, however, cotton was not as widely used as wool and linen. This was because it was easier to spin wool or flax into yam because of their greater length. In addition, cotton fibers have to be separated from the seeds to which they cling. This procedure was very tedious and timeconsuming when done by hand. Early machinery could be used on only the longest staple cotton. So labor costs tended to be very high.直到最近，然而，棉花是沒有廣泛用作羊毛和亞麻布。它的流行源于它的生產(chǎn)及其在紡織產(chǎn)品廣泛適用性相對容易。紗線結(jié)構(gòu)和織物外觀的關(guān)系 2021課 精紡和粗紡 2225課 絡(luò)紗 2327課 整經(jīng) 2633 課 織機(jī) 3440課 蓬勃發(fā)展的非織造布 4349課 染色 48第一課Cotton Growing棉花種植　　 Cotton is the world39。目錄01課Cotton Growing棉花種植 102課Cotton Properties and Uses棉纖維的特性和用途 204課Wool羊毛 505課 Structure and Properties of Wool羊毛纖維的結(jié)構(gòu)和性能 706課 Silk絲綢 1007課 Flax亞麻 1309課 Rayon人造絲 1612課YARNS 1913課 s most widely used fiber. Its popularity stems from both its relative ease of production and its applicability to a wide variety of textile products. The price of cotton yarn, however, is strongly dependent upon the cost of labor, so that in the industrialized nations, where labor is expensive, cotton yarns may be relatively high priced.棉花是世界上使用最廣泛的纖維。棉紗價格，然而，強(qiáng)烈地依賴于勞動力成本，因此，在工業(yè)化的國家，那里的勞動力昂貴，棉紗可能相對較高的價格。這是因?yàn)樗菀妆幻騺喡榧彸杉営捎谄涓蟮拈L度。這個過程是非常繁瑣和費(fèi)時的，手工做的。所以勞動力成本會很高。生產(chǎn)率的急劇增加，加上在美國南部的人工成本低，給棉不斷擴(kuò)大在全球紡織市場部。紡織機(jī)械的發(fā)展，擴(kuò)大了生產(chǎn)基地。生長季節(jié)是從六到七個月。當(dāng)莢破裂，棉纖維是采摘。棉花是彩色的，依據(jù)梯度纖維長度，細(xì)度，和外來物質(zhì)的自由。這些都是由美國農(nóng)業(yè)部提供一個標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的比較。最常見的等級：　　(1) Strict good middling.（1）嚴(yán)格的上級?！　?3) Strict middling. （3）嚴(yán)格的中等?！　?5) Strict low middling （5）嚴(yán)格的低中等　　(6) Low middling. （6）低中等?！　?The cotton fiber may be from to cm long. Under the microscope it appears as a ribbon like structure that is twisted at irregular intervals along its length. The twists, called convolutions, increase the fibertofiber friction necessary to secure a strong spun yarn. The fiber ranges in color from a yellowish to pure white, and may be very lustrous. However, most cotton dull.。曲曲折折的，稱為卷積，增加纖維間的摩擦力要獲得一個強(qiáng)有力的紗。然而，大多數(shù)棉花遲鈍。纖維由外殼，或角質(zhì)層，圍繞初生壁。角質(zhì)層是薄的，堅(jiān)硬的外殼保護(hù)纖維生長過程中的破碎和損傷。第二課Cotton Properties and Uses棉纖維的特性和用途　　 A relatively high level of moisture absorption and good wicking properties help make cotton one of the more fortable fibers. Because of the hydroxyl groups in the cellulose, cotton has a high attraction for water. As water enters the fiber, cotton swells and its cross section bees more rounded. The high affinity for moisture and the ability to swell when wet allow cotton to absorb about onefourth of its weight in water. This means that in hot weather perspiration from the body will be absorbed in cotton fabrics, transported along the yarns to the outer surface of the cloth and evaporated into the air. Thus, the body will be aided in maintaining its temperature.吸濕性和良好的吸濕排汗性能使棉纖維的一個更舒適的一個比較高的水平。當(dāng)水進(jìn)入纖維棉，膨脹，其截面變得更圓。這意味著，在炎熱的天氣里，身體的汗會吸收棉織品，沿運(yùn)紗布的外表面和蒸發(fā)到空氣中。　　 Unfortunately, the hydrophilic nature of cotton makes it susceptible to waterborne stains. Watersoluble colorants such as those in coffee or grape juice will penetrate the fiber along with the water。如在咖啡或葡萄汁的水溶性色素會滲入纖維隨著水；當(dāng)水分蒸發(fā)，著色劑是困在纖維。棉纖維的剛度降低紗線抗起皺能力。在新的位置的氫鍵的改革，所以當(dāng)破碎力去除纖維保持在新的位置?！　? Cotton is a moderately strong fiber with good abrasion resistance and good dimensional stability. It is resistant to the acids, alkalies, and organic solvents normally available to consumers. But since it is a natural material, it is subject to attack by insects, molds and fungus. Most prominent is the tendency for cotton to mildew if allowed to remain damp.棉花是具有良好的耐磨性和尺寸穩(wěn)定性好，中等強(qiáng)度的纖維。但由于它是一種天然物質(zhì)，它是受攻擊的昆蟲，霉菌和真菌?！　? Cotton resists sunlight and heat well, although direct exposure to constant strong sunlight will cause yellowing and eventual degradation of the fiber. Yellowing may also occur when cotton goods are dried in gas dryers. The color change is the result of a chemical reaction between cellulose and oxygen or nitrogen oxides in the hot air in the dryer. Cottons will retain their whiteness longer when linedried or dried in the electric dryer.棉花抗太陽光和熱，雖然直接暴露于恒定的強(qiáng)烈的陽光會引起黃的最終降解纖維。顏色的變化是一種化學(xué)反應(yīng)的纖維素和氧或氮氧化物之間在熱空氣中干燥的結(jié)果?！　? Of major interest is the fact that cotton yarn is stronger when wet than when dry. This property is a consequence of the macroand microstructural features of the fiber. As water is absorbed, the fiber swells and its cross section bees more rounded. Usually the absorption of such a large amount of foreign material would cause a high degree of internal stress and lead to weakening of the fiber. In cotton, however, the absorption of water causes a decrease in the internal stresses. Thus, with less internal stresses to overe, the swollen fiber bees stronger. At the same time, the swollen fibers within the yarns press upon each other more strongly. The internal friction strengthens the yarns. In addition, the absorbed water acts as an internal lubricant which imparts a higher level of flexibility to the fibers. This accounts for the fact that cotton garments are more easily ironed when damp. Cotton fabrics are susceptible to shrinkage upon laundering.主要感興趣的是事實(shí)，棉紗時干時濕比。當(dāng)水被吸收，纖維膨脹，其截面變得更圓。然而，棉花，水的吸收導(dǎo)致的內(nèi)部應(yīng)力減少。同時，在紗線溶脹纖維按對彼此更強(qiáng)烈。此外，所吸收的水作為一個內(nèi)部潤滑劑，賦予纖維較高水平的靈活性。純棉織物易收縮對洗錢。它提供了強(qiáng)大的，面料輕薄，柔軟，易干燥，易清洗。主要的缺點(diǎn)是一種棉紗和棉布收縮起皺的傾向。免燙性能可以通過化學(xué)處理或由棉纖維混紡傳授更多的抗皺，如滌綸。雖然他們可能缺乏來自其他纖維材料的形式出現(xiàn)，棉織品提供一個舒適，溫馨的環(huán)境。滌/棉混紡織物提供沒有鐵的床單和枕套，保持一個清晰的現(xiàn)代消費(fèi)，新鮮的感覺。棉花是特別適合的帳篷。此外，與外界空氣交換減少濕度在帳篷和使它變得悶。帳篷也流下的水，當(dāng)被雨水打濕，棉紗膨脹，降低紗線和抗水滲透之間的間隙。　　 Cotton cord, twine and ropes are used in industry to bind, hold, and lash all kinds of things, from bales to boats. Cotton yarns are used to reinforce belts on drive motors and in work clothing.棉繩，繩和繩行業(yè)中使用的綁定，持有，鞭笞和各種各樣的東西，從包船。第四課 Wool羊毛　　 The early history of wool is lost in antiquity. Sheepskin, including the hair, was probably used long before it was discovered that the fibers could be s