【正文】 st be quilted or stitched at appropriate intervals to prevent the padding from falling. Padding must not escape through the weave of the outer fabric of the inner lining. 對于有填充物的衣服，里料必須衍縫或加縫適當間距的緝線防止填充物陷落。 Sewing thread 縫紉線 ? Must be a good colour match unless intended as a contrast. 必須良好配色除非設(shè)計成撞色 。 ? Fabric faults are not acceptable in garments unless they are inherent in the fabric and are agreed at the buying stage. 不接受服裝面料上的疵點除非是緣于面料本身固有的問題造成的或疵點在客人接受的范圍內(nèi)。首選用自動鎖頭拉練。 Buttons 紐扣 ? All garments must carry a spare button of each ligne used. There must be 2 spare buttons if the garment has 10 buttons or more. 所有的服裝上每個款式的紐扣必須留有一顆備紐，若服裝上有十顆或者更多此款紐扣，必須留有兩顆備鈕。 ? Post fasteners must not be used on woven fabrics and prongs on knitted fabrics. 扣合件中的紐柱不能用于梭織面料，不能插在針織面料上。 ? There must be backing on fabric of washable belts. 可水洗的繩帶必須在面料上打回針牢固。 put together and finished will influence their appearance and durability due to the garments being worn often. 服裝裁剪時，面料必須放在一起且同時完成影響外觀的整理及經(jīng)常穿著所需的耐磨處理。 ? All neck closure seams should be 1cm past the shoulder seam towards the back of the garment. 所有頸縫末段處應(yīng)當在服裝背面向后過肩縫 1公分。對于牛仔和褲裝要求用辮式鎖眼。 ? Also on jeans flat fell seams double or triple stitching provides flat, firm enclosed seams. These must be smoothly constructed. This seam construction encases the seam allowance so there is no raveling during wearing or washing. If seams are not fell flat, you must ensure seams are serged (overcast) to cover the raw edges and thus prevent raveling. 對于牛仔衣物需要用雙線或三線外包縫的線跡保證止口平直牢固。 Used for multineedle elastication 用于多針橡筋。 9 SECTION 3 PRESENTATION GUIDELINES 第三部分 外觀指導 ? Pockets should be tack stitch closed on formal garments with a large, loose stitch, unless otherwise specified 正裝上的口袋必須用寬松大距的假縫閉口除非有特別要求的除外。 Bags and wrappers are to be BHT free and of micron guage and must be recyclable. 包裝袋和包裝材料不能含有 BHT且按照指定的品質(zhì)同時必須是環(huán)保材質(zhì)的。整件服裝必須是經(jīng)過熨燙的。 The final garment must ply with BS specification, in all aspects. 服裝最終成品必須在各個方面符合公司的規(guī)格單。 11 SECTION 4 SAFETY REQUIREMENTS 第四部分 安全要求 Garments 服裝 ? All necessary precautions must be followed in production to minimise any risk to our customers. You must tell us of any issues that could risk the safety of our customers. 貨物必須采取所有可以降低風險的一切措施，使我們的客人將會面臨風險的系數(shù)降到最低同時必須告知客戶 任何會產(chǎn)生安全風險的問題。 ? Do not use staples, this includes all cartons. 不能用釘書針，紙箱上不能有箱釘。這包括手縫針，機縫針， 槍針或用于編織的針具。 ? Needle fragments are to be taped together in a ―broken needle record sheet‖, with the date, operative, if all parts are found and, if not, what action was taken and the supervisors signature. 斷針碎片需要紀錄備案在《斷針記錄報告》上，并紀錄日期，操作者，是否找到全部斷裂部分，如果沒有，必須記錄采取了何種措施以及監(jiān)督者的簽名。 13 Pins 大頭針 ? Pins must not be used in any part of the factory. This includes the sample rooms, cutting, makeup, inspection of packing area or any other areas where garments/ponents are handled. 工廠的任何車間都不能用大頭針。 ? Any garments that needs repairs due to the washing processes should be repaired by machine, as this will give a more consistent and stronger finish than by hand. 任何由于水洗程序產(chǎn)生損害而需要返修的服裝必須用機械修整。 ? Thread clippers / small scissors for use by sewing operators should be attached to the machine. 縫紉工使用的剪刀必須捆綁在縫紉機上。 ? Screwdrivers for use when changing sewing needles should be stored in a safe place with the needles. They should be issued by the supervisor with a new needle and returned by the operator when the needle has been changed. 替換機縫針時用的螺絲起子必須同機縫針一起包存在安全的地方。運用在服裝部件上的這些燃料必須符合玩具安全標準。 ? Fabrics and garment ponents can contain elements, which are toxic. Where such fabrics and ponents are used they must ply with the migration limits of the Toy Safety Standards BS EN: Part 3: 1995. 面料及服裝各組成部分的成分有可能含有毒性。其中包括用于牛仔上的汽眼，工字扣，腰帶和襠扣等等。 ? Bundle tables to be checked weekly for rough edges and splinters. 每周檢查捆扎臺有無毛邊和碎片。 The level of nickel permitted by the directive 文件指示中關(guān)于鎳的允許含量 The directive stipulates that when items are in direct and prolonged contact with the skin, and following a period of two years normal wear (as specified in EN 12472:1998) the maximum permitted release of nickel must not exceed micrograms /square cm/week 按照文件規(guī)定，所有直接或間接接觸皮膚的物品按照兩年的正常穿著來記最大允許含鎳量為：不得超過每周每平 方厘米 。 ? Fabrics for BS merchandise must not contain heavy metals, which migrate beyond the limits specified in the above standard. 用于公司貨物的面料中不能含有超出安全標準的重金屬物質(zhì)。 ? Fabrics must not contain heavy metals that migrate beyond the limits specified in this standard. 面料中不能含有超出此標準中指定限制的重金屬物質(zhì)。 All mechanics should be issued with a lockable toolbox. All tools should be stored in this box when not in use. 所有的機械工必須裝配在一個帶鎖的工具箱，所有的工具不被使用時必須放在工具箱內(nèi)。 Sewing Accessories, Machine Parts and Screw Drivers 縫紉附件， 機械零件和螺絲起子工具 ? Thread unpickers should be attached to the sewing machine. 拆線器必須附在縫紉機上。 ? Knit needles for repairs must be inserted into a wooden holder with a cord attached, this can then be attached to the table. 用于修補的編織針必須插在木制的容器中并用繩線捆綁，容器外貼上標簽。 ? Suppliers are responsible for ensuring that this policy is applied to embroidery, appliqu233。 they should be placed in a sealed, marked container which is kept well away from the production area, trimming store or mechanics workshops are ideal. 鈍化 / 老舊的針決不能隨意處置，廢棄在柜子或工廠內(nèi)的室內(nèi)場地上。 ? New needles must be stored in a safe place, preferably under lock and key, new needles will only be issued on a one for one basis after all pieces of the old one have been found 新針必須貯藏在安全處，最好是帶鎖的地方。 Accessories 服飾配件