【正文】 market share has declined since the phase out of quotas. With the plete removal of quotas in 2020, it is difficult for these countries to pete on price. Since the US government lifted quotas in 2020 on 29 categories, for example, China’s market share (in these categories) jumped from just 9% (2020) to 65% (2020) while prices paid by US retailers (for apparel from China) dropped by 48% (National Labor Committee, 2020). In cotton dressing gowns (quotas removed) China’s share in 2020 jumped from 25% to 39% while that of Caribbean countries fell from 13% to a mere 3%. In the first 12 months after the phase out of quotas, China’s market share in apparel rose by 59% in value while that of many Central and South American countries showed a sharp decline. What are the implications for TC firms in countries that are vulnerable to petition from China? First, they should capitalize on their proximity to the US market. Their ability to offer lower transport cost, lower lead times as well as duty free entry to the US market may attract the fashionoriented segment of the US Ⅲ — 16 industry. This will depend on access to good local transport infrastructure to get goods to market as well as advanced telemunications systems to link suppliers and customers. Local firms and governments need to collaborate in creating a climate which is conducive to business and to develop infrastructure to attract and retain TC industries that are so vital in generating exports and employment. Secondly, low wages do not necessarily provide a parative advantage with respect to China. Firms should develop new capabilities in areas in which China does not have a parative advantage (yarn, and silk nonapparel). This requires, inter alia, investment in modern production methods and development of petitive sources of local raw materials. Even in product areas in which China is expanding its exports, developing country suppliers that enhance their skills, technology, supply chains and marketing capabilities (through joint ventures, licensing arrangements) faster than China can still maintain their shares to the US market. Thirdly, an important strategic consideration that limits the petitive impact of China is the need on the part of multinationals to diversify their risk portfolios. US manufacturers and retailers are likely to adopt a diversified risk adjusted sourcing strategy that balances cost, speed to market as well as political and economic stability. They may not be prepared to rely on China for critical inputs beyond a certain threshold of risk. Furthermore, Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean could be attractive options for US panies in some fashion sensitive segments of the industry where quick response or fast turnaround is important. Finally, existing US rules of origin requirements to qualify for free access to the US market have had unintended consequences. One of the requirements is that they have to use US yarn and fabric. This has had the effect of making their exports less petitive. The US may have to modify its rules of origin to allow developing countries to import from Asia or other petitive sources without losing their preferential status. Ⅲ — 17 美國紡織品和服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)的貿(mào)易自由化和戰(zhàn)略調(diào)整模式 貝蕾 received in revised form 17 April 2020, 11 October 2020, 23 November 2020。紡織品和服裝的供給和需求潛在的變化將要提高發(fā)展中國家的勞動生產(chǎn)效率 ，促進收入的增長和全球農(nóng)產(chǎn)品需求的擴大，這些農(nóng)產(chǎn)品包括食物和纖維原材料，比如棉花。這種需求的增長在使用多種纖維協(xié)定規(guī)定下的配額制的進口國（加拿大、歐盟、挪威和美國）中表現(xiàn)地非常明顯。 Ⅲ — 10 人們希望烏拉圭回合的改革能降低紡織品和服裝的價格，通過纖維服裝供應(yīng)鏈來增加全球?qū)@些產(chǎn)品的需求。相反，美國最重要的進口來源國是拉丁美洲國家，中國和亞洲的工業(yè)化國家。 正在變化的格局：一些供應(yīng)商正在失去市場份額而另一些供應(yīng)商正在增加他們的市場份額 紡織品和服裝貿(mào)易很容易受已確定的格局和相鄰的地理條件的影響。其中中國取得了顯著的進步，在 2020 年所占全 球的市場份額高達 25%，比 1992 年上升了 4 個百分點。亞洲新興工業(yè)化國家在全球紡織品和服裝市場所占的份額減少了一半，從 1992 年的 24%下降到 2020 年的 12%。它使工人們學會生產(chǎn)制造，并且 提供給他們在新的并且生產(chǎn)效率不斷提高的領(lǐng)域內(nèi)培訓的機會。與依賴自然資源稟賦的農(nóng)業(yè)產(chǎn)品不同，紡織品生產(chǎn)的地點，特別是，服裝的生產(chǎn)地點由于工資的差異在不斷地轉(zhuǎn)移。這個數(shù)據(jù)庫，來源于聯(lián)合國的 Comtrade 數(shù)據(jù)，它包括出口和進口國家 /地區(qū)在 1992 年到 2020 年之間的有關(guān)商品和產(chǎn)品貿(mào)易流的信息。這些改革同樣預示著纖維和紡織品貿(mào)易的生產(chǎn)地點和方向?qū)l(fā)生重大改變?？偟膩碚f ,這些改革應(yīng)該促進紡織品貿(mào)易的增長，這種增長會超過世界經(jīng)濟體中其它部門貿(mào)易的增長。它同樣確立了紡織品與服裝協(xié)定（ ATC）， ATC 是保證在 1974 年多種纖維協(xié)定（