【正文】 re 3%. In the first 12 months after the phase out of quotas, China’s market share in apparel rose by 59% in value while that of many Central and South American countries showed a sharp decline. What are the implications for TC firms in countries that are vulnerable to petition from China? First, they should capitalize on their proximity to the US market. Their ability to offer lower transport cost, lower lead times as well as duty free entry to the US market may attract the fashionoriented segment of the US Ⅲ — 16 industry. This will depend on access to good local transport infrastructure to get goods to market as well as advanced telemunications systems to link suppliers and customers. Local firms and governments need to collaborate in creating a climate which is conducive to business and to develop infrastructure to attract and retain TC industries that are so vital in generating exports and employment. Secondly, low wages do not necessarily provide a parative advantage with respect to China. Firms should develop new capabilities in areas in which China does not have a parative advantage (yarn, and silk nonapparel). This requires, inter alia, investment in modern production methods and development of petitive sources of local raw materials. Even in product areas in which China is expanding its exports, developing country suppliers that enhance their skills, technology, supply chains and marketing capabilities (through joint ventures, licensing arrangements) faster than China can still maintain their shares to the US market. Thirdly, an important strategic consideration that limits the petitive impact of China is the need on the part of multinationals to diversify their risk portfolios. US manufacturers and retailers are likely to adopt a diversified risk adjusted sourcing strategy that balances cost, speed to market as well as political and economic stability. They may not be prepared to rely on China for critical inputs beyond a certain threshold of risk. Furthermore, Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean could be attractive options for US panies in some fashion sensitive segments of the industry where quick response or fast turnaround is important. Finally, existing US rules of origin requirements to qualify for free access to the US market have had unintended consequences. One of the requirements is that they have to use US yarn and fabric. This has had the effect of making their exports less petitive. The US may have to modify its rules of origin to allow developing countries to import from Asia or other petitive sources without losing their preferential status. Ⅲ — 17 美國(guó)紡織品和服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)的貿(mào)易自由化和戰(zhàn)略調(diào)整模式 貝蕾 在服裝方面，低技術(shù)含量的生產(chǎn)工作已經(jīng)被轉(zhuǎn)移到低成本的國(guó)家，而高技術(shù)含量的生產(chǎn)工作仍然在本國(guó)進(jìn)行。重要的一點(diǎn)是識(shí)別企業(yè)的目標(biāo)顧客和評(píng)定企業(yè)是否 Ⅲ — 18 能成功的滿足他們的需求。 本文建立了一個(gè)需求推動(dòng)模型，將其作為發(fā)展服裝紡織行業(yè)的網(wǎng)絡(luò)框架的基礎(chǔ)。通過(guò)信息技術(shù)、 Ⅲ — 19 在線數(shù)據(jù)的共享、共同產(chǎn)品的發(fā)展，合作性的預(yù)測(cè)、計(jì)劃和補(bǔ)貨活動(dòng)，各種供應(yīng)商和轉(zhuǎn)包合同商總是聯(lián)系在一起。這意味著中國(guó)生產(chǎn)的合理性和擁有大量穩(wěn)定的買主。舉個(gè)例子，美國(guó)政 府在 2020年解除了對(duì) 29類商品的配額限制，中國(guó)在美國(guó)的市場(chǎng)份額從原來(lái)區(qū)區(qū)的 9%（ 2020年）一下子躍升到 65%（ 2020年），而美國(guó)零售商（從中國(guó)購(gòu)買服裝的）價(jià)格下降了 48%（國(guó)家勞動(dòng)委員會(huì)， 2020年）。企業(yè)應(yīng)該在中國(guó)沒(méi)有比較優(yōu)勢(shì)的那些領(lǐng)域（紗線、絲、非紡織類方面）挖掘出他們的新潛能。其中一個(gè)要求是他們不得不使用美國(guó)的紗線和纖維。再者，墨西哥、中美洲和加勒比海國(guó)家在一些時(shí)尚的部門上對(duì)美國(guó)的公司有著吸引，這些部門對(duì)時(shí)尚的快速反應(yīng)變化是非常重要的。當(dāng)?shù)仄髽I(yè)和政府需要在創(chuàng)造性的環(huán)境下進(jìn)行合作，這個(gè)環(huán)境是通過(guò)促進(jìn)商務(wù)和發(fā)展基礎(chǔ)結(jié)構(gòu)來(lái)吸引和保持紡織品和服裝行業(yè)的，因?yàn)榧徔椘泛头b行業(yè)在創(chuàng)造出口和就業(yè)方面的作用很大 。即使一定的貿(mào)易保護(hù)對(duì)這些國(guó)家的部分產(chǎn)品出口有利，但是自從配額取消以來(lái)他們?cè)诿绹?guó)市場(chǎng)的份額是下降的。中國(guó)低 廉的勞動(dòng)力成本，高的生產(chǎn)效率和產(chǎn)量，靈活多變的服務(wù)和有效的供應(yīng)網(wǎng)絡(luò)將使得中國(guó)成為供應(yīng)商的選擇。（圖 7）。美國(guó)紡織品企業(yè)同樣能夠利用墨西哥和歐盟之間的貿(mào)易協(xié)定，通過(guò)墨西哥將產(chǎn)品出口到歐盟和其他的國(guó)家。比如，在美國(guó)增長(zhǎng)最快的兩個(gè)服裝部門是女式的加大服裝部門和男式的大而高的服裝部門。紡織品產(chǎn)品是資本密集型的，這種高質(zhì)量產(chǎn)品需要現(xiàn)代的技術(shù)來(lái)滿足增長(zhǎng)的需求。 received in revised form 17 April 2020, 11 October 2020, 23 November 2020。相反，美國(guó)最重要的進(jìn)口來(lái)源國(guó)是拉丁美洲國(guó)家，中國(guó)和亞洲的工業(yè)化國(guó)家。它使工人們學(xué)會(huì)生產(chǎn)制造，并且 提供給他們?cè)谛碌牟⑶疑a(chǎn)效率不斷提高的領(lǐng)域內(nèi)培訓(xùn)的機(jī)會(huì)?？偟膩?lái)說(shuō) ,這些改革應(yīng)該促進(jìn)紡織品貿(mào)易的增長(zhǎng)，這種增長(zhǎng)會(huì)超過(guò)世界經(jīng)濟(jì)體中其它部門貿(mào)易的增長(zhǎng)。葛赫哈，史蒂芬葛赫哈， 史蒂芬 ERS 網(wǎng)站（ ）提供的雙邊纖維和紡織品貿(mào)易數(shù)據(jù)庫(kù)，能使分析家了解全球市場(chǎng)中合作伙伴之間和跨商品和產(chǎn)品之間正在演進(jìn)的貿(mào) 易結(jié)構(gòu)。相反，除亞洲新興工業(yè)化國(guó)家以外，發(fā)展中國(guó)家的供應(yīng)商所占的市場(chǎng)份額在這段時(shí)期內(nèi)增加了 15%達(dá)到了 64%。在工業(yè)化國(guó)家中對(duì)紡織品和服裝進(jìn)口的需求在快速地增長(zhǎng)。塞尤姆 美國(guó) 國(guó)際商務(wù)評(píng)論，第 16期 ,2020年 貝蕾 為了能順利地適應(yīng)新的環(huán)境，美國(guó)紡織品和服裝行業(yè)需要將他們 的競(jìng)爭(zhēng)優(yōu)勢(shì)變成資本。 美國(guó)的紡織品和服裝企業(yè)應(yīng)該以一個(gè)狹小的提供最好的成功機(jī)會(huì)的市場(chǎng)部門作為目標(biāo)。在這個(gè)需求推動(dòng)的模型中，消費(fèi)者的需求是銷售的推動(dòng)力，這個(gè)模型不同于供給推動(dòng)模型，在那個(gè)模型中生產(chǎn)者不考慮消費(fèi)者的需求而將產(chǎn)品提供給零售商。當(dāng)運(yùn)輸變的越