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and the small tables are intentional imitations of the ones that Coco Chanel once sat at every afternoon for hot chocolate. The famous hot chocolate, known as L’Africain, is a luxurious mixture of four types of cocoa beans imported from Africa, blended in Paris and then shipped to Shanghai. It’s sinfully sweet, rich and thick as if putting a bar of melting chocolate directly on the tongue and the fresh whipped cream on the side makes a light, but equally gratifying contrast. It is also sold in glass bottles as takeaway. The signature MontBlanc chestnut cake consists of three parts: the pureed chestnut on top, the vanilla cream like stuffing, and the meringue as base. Get all three layers in one scoop, not only for the different textures but also various flavors of sweetness. The dessert has maintained its popularity for a century, even in a country like France, perhaps the world’s most petitive place for desserts. A much overlooked pairing, is the ParisNew York choux pastry and N226 chocolate flavored tea. The choux pastry is a mouthful of airy pecanflavored whipped cream, while the tea, a blend of black teas from China and Ceylon, cocoa and rose petals, offers a more subtle fragrance of flowers and chocolate. Ordering these two items, featuring a muted sweetness, makes it easier for you to fit into your little black dress. Breakfast, brunch, lunch and light supper are also served at the tearoom, a hub of many cultures and takes in a mix of different styles of French cuisines, according to the management team. The semicooked foie gras terrine, is seductive and deceptive. It’s generously served at the size and shape of a toast, while the actual brioche toast is baked into a curved slice dipped with fig chutney. The flavor, however, is honest: strong, smooth and sublime. And you don’t actually need the toast for crunchiness. This is the season for high teas, with dainty cups of fine china and little pastries that appeal to both visual and physical appetites. But there is one high tea with a difference, and Pauline D. Loh finds out just exactly why it is special. Earl Grey tea and macarons are all very well for the crucial recuperative break inbetween intensive bouts of holiday season shopping. And for those who prefer savory to sweet, there is still the selection of classic Chinese snacks called dim sum to satisfy and satiate. High tea is a meal to eat with eye and mouth, an inbetween indulgence that should be light enough not to spoil dinner, but sufficiently robust to take the edge off the hunger that strikes hours after lunch. The afternoon tea special at ShangXi at the Four Seasons Hotel Pudong has just the right elements. It is a pampering meal, with touches of luxury that make the high tea session a treat in itself. Whole baby abalones are braised and then topped on a shortcrust pastry shell, a sort of Chinese version of the Western volauvent, but classier. Even classier is the dim sum staple shrimp dumpling or hargow, upgraded with the addition of slivers of midnight dark truffles. This is a master touch, and chef Simon Choi, who presides unchallenged at ShangXi, has scored a winner again. Sweet prawns and aromatic truffles — what’s not to love? His ma