【正文】 。 Hem has Shell fabric facing, clean finished and doubles at tunnel 下擺有本布貼邊，包光處理，通道裡兩層表布（這樣裡布或者棉花就不會(huì)被看到） Vivian remarks客人說(shuō)明在開(kāi)發(fā)時(shí)可先不加 taffeta,等客人 ments有提到時(shí)再加 Hem shockcord travels through 3? Shell tunnel 繩扣從雞眼出來(lái)后再穿過(guò)長(zhǎng)為 3? 的表布通道 Tunnel is small enough so cord end does not pull out 通道不能太大，繩扣不能被拉出 男式如下圖 女士如下圖 繩尾夾 下擺繩 3”長(zhǎng)孔道 織帶 繩扣 2023/4/1 33 Jacket Features 夾克一般做工 Dual Cinch Hem Adjustment System Exit Into Pocket Bag 兩個(gè)鎖眼的繩扣調(diào)節(jié)，棉繩 從通道出來(lái)后進(jìn)入口袋 All fabric shockcord tunnels should have a Taffeta tunnel lining inside hem facing to smoothly channel the cord. See additional details. 通道要有 tafetta 布做內(nèi)裡貼邊，這樣繩子就容易調(diào)整繩長(zhǎng) Hem has Shell fabric facing 下擺用本布做內(nèi)貼 Drawcord exits at interior CF hem facing through grommets 棉繩從前中下擺內(nèi)側(cè)兩個(gè)鎖眼中穿出 The drawcord is threaded through the cordlock, then enters 2nd grommet (paced a few inches above). This grommet leads into the hand pocket bag 棉繩穿過(guò)繩扣，進(jìn)入第二個(gè)雞眼（幾英寸之上）。穿過(guò)這個(gè)雞眼進(jìn)入手口袋 Cordlock is loose, no tie downs 棉繩是鬆的不要太緊 Shockcord has cord pull end finish 棉繩尾端有拉頭 The wearer can adjust the hem from inside the pocket bag. 穿者可在口袋內(nèi)調(diào)節(jié)下擺寬度 繩尾在手心袋布里 下擺有雙繩孔時(shí)繩子需進(jìn)入袋布 2023/4/1 34 Jacket Features Dual Hem Cinch Adjustment System with Hidden Push Button Cordlock 下擺繩扣調(diào)節(jié)做工 All fabric shockcord tunnels should have a Taffeta tunnel lining inside hem facing to smoothly channel the cord. See additional details. 所有通道要有 tafetta 布做內(nèi)裡貼邊，這樣繩子就容易調(diào)整繩長(zhǎng) Hem has Shell fabric facing, clean finished and doubles at tunnel 下擺有本布貼邊，包光處理，通道裡兩層表布（這樣裡布或者棉花就不會(huì)被看到） Hem shockcord travels through 3? Shell tunnel 棉繩穿過(guò)繩扣后再透過(guò)長(zhǎng)為 3? 的表布通道 Tunnel is small enough so cord end does not pull out 通道不能太大，棉繩底部拉頭不能被拉出 Hidden cordlocks inside hem tunnel at side seams and are tied down with grosgrain. 通道在側(cè)剪接處，內(nèi)有隱藏的繩扣，繩扣用緞帶固定 Shockcord is set into CF seams. 棉繩車(chē)到前中縫份 透視圖 外長(zhǎng) 內(nèi)面圖 下擺有雙繩孔時(shí) 請(qǐng)注意繩尾不可經(jīng)由通道被拉過(guò) 繩尾夾 3”長(zhǎng)孔道 繩 繩扣 織帶 表布 2023/4/1 35 Jacket Features 夾克一般做工 Powderskirts:擋風(fēng)下擺 Single layer powderskirt is set into lining seams with safety stitch and under CF facings. 單層的擋風(fēng)下擺車(chē)在前內(nèi)貼與下裡布的剪接縫份處 Powderskirt is set with Print fabric side against the wearer. 擋風(fēng)片塗層面靠穿者 Powderskirt Mesh Panels: 1? Upper panel in mesh set with 188。? DNS Flat Fell Machine. 擋風(fēng)片網(wǎng)布與 tafetta布剪接，在網(wǎng)布下端 1? 用雙針車(chē)車(chē)合 (法式包縫方式 ) Powderskirt length 下擺擋風(fēng)片長(zhǎng)度 for Women = 5?. Set 19? below CB neck seam 女式 ︰ 長(zhǎng) 5? ，在后中領(lǐng)圍下 19? 處 for Men = 6?. Set 20 189。? below CB neck seam 男式 ︰ 長(zhǎng) 6? ，在后中領(lǐng)圍下 20 189。? 處 擋風(fēng)下擺位置 女式 ︰ 長(zhǎng) 5”，在后中領(lǐng)圍下 19”處 男式 ︰ 長(zhǎng) 6”，在后中領(lǐng)圍下 20 189?！碧? 上膠的 taffeta 止滑鬆緊帶 1”寬彈力剪接片 2023/4/1 36 Jacket Features 夾克一般做工 Powderskirts:擋風(fēng)下襬 See below Powderskirt Setting to lining for 2L and 3L jackets 2L和 3L的夾克下擺擋風(fēng)片 做工請(qǐng)看下圖。 TuckAway powderskirt tuck into pocket that extends from CF facings. Powderskirt flaps stay tucked into pocket with snaps. 擋風(fēng)下擺要延伸至前內(nèi)貼 Vivian remarks客人澄清 , tuck into pocket 不用理會(huì) 下擺擋風(fēng)片的前蓋片轉(zhuǎn)角處打版請(qǐng)打弧度不要打直角 ,以防穿者穿久後轉(zhuǎn)角斷裂 . Powderskirt Pant Snap Tabs 擋風(fēng) 下擺下端四合扣絆帶 Webbing Belt Loop Snap tabs set against wearer 189。? above hem. Ends are heat cut and have single fold hems and reinforced with bartack at fold. 腰絆帶要放在穿著下擺上 1/2? 處 , 織帶尾端先熱切割再反折進(jìn)去包住，最後打結(jié)固定 Vivian remarks客人澄清應(yīng)是到鬆緊帶 (Elastic),而不是下襬 (Hem) 前中表布蓋片 2L 擋風(fēng)下擺縫製方式 3/4”寬絆帶 條狀止滑鬆緊帶 擋風(fēng)下擺下端四合扣絆帶 尾端熱切 3L 擋風(fēng)下擺縫製方式 針織織帶 雙針尾端內(nèi)面加圓形 車(chē)線(xiàn) (不須打結(jié) ) Tricot刷毛面經(jīng)向紋路需貼著補(bǔ)強(qiáng)點(diǎn) 2023/4/1 37 Powder skirt tab placement Vivian remarks織帶絆是用來(lái)勾褲耳用 女士擋風(fēng)下擺絆帶位置 男士擋風(fēng)下擺絆帶位置 鬆緊帶拉量 2023/4/1 38 Pant Features 褲子一般做工要求 CF Closure: 前中開(kāi)口 Men‘s and Women’s pants close Left over Right. 男式褲子和女式褲子開(kāi)口都是左片蓋住右片 Zipper fly: Fly inner flap is in Shell with Clean Finish lining. 有拉鏈的前立 ︰ 前立內(nèi)片用本布，裡布包光處理 Bottom of fly ends with a double bartack: One horizontal bartack to be at bottom of Jstitch next to front rise seam. And the other vertical bartack at top of Jhook 5/8? above horizontal bartack. 前立下端兩個(gè)打結(jié) ︰ 一個(gè)水平打結(jié)在 J 點(diǎn)下端，另一個(gè)在水平結(jié)在前立剪接線(xiàn)上 5/8? 處 . Ring Springs Snaps should be used at CF WB. 彈簧四合扣在前中腰頭 前中釦合是左蓋右 2023/4/1 39 Pant Features 褲子一般做工 Waistbands 腰頭 Waistband lining is Clean Finished into WB seam 腰頭裡布包光處理，車(chē)在腰頭縫份裡 Belt Loops are set into bottom WB seam. Bartacked 3/8? below and then bartacked to top edge of WB seam 褲耳一端固定于腰頭並在腰頭下 3/8? 處打結(jié)，另一端車(chē)在腰頭上端剪接線(xiàn) If elastic is set throughout back WB, the Elastic should be tacked to CB WB 如果腰頭有鬆緊帶，鬆緊帶要固定于后中腰頭 WB Tab Hook and loop velcro should overlap 1? when pletely relaxed. 腰頭粘扣帶扣合後 ,勾面與毛面需有 1? 重合 打結(jié) 距離 3/8“加打結(jié) ,另有 1/8”鬆量 腰頭粘扣帶處?kù)斗朋犖恢脮r(shí) , 上下粘扣帶重疊份為 1“ 2023/4/1 40 Pant Features 調(diào)整式腰頭 穿者右邊腰頭 1/2示意圖 腰耳未在腰頂打結(jié)前示意圖 外露絆帶 2“1/2長(zhǎng) 後中 前中 粘扣帶毛面 4“長(zhǎng) 絆帶車(chē)在後腰頭 表布孔道下示意圖 表布絆帶 5“長(zhǎng) Taffeta從後中到絆帶 4“長(zhǎng) 1”寬鬆緊帶放在縫份及腰絆裡 4”長(zhǎng)毛面粘扣帶 2023/4/1 41 Pant Features 褲子一般做工 Pockets: 口袋做工 Zippers set into 189。? Shell Extension to allow seam seal taping. 拉鏈外邊要有 1/2? 的松份供 熱貼合 Brushed tricot pocket bags have slick side against palm and brushed side against knuckle. 刷毛布口袋，光的一面為手心袋布 ,毛的一面為手背袋布 . Hand Pocket bags tacked with taffeta swag with bartack to inseam 1 189。? below crotch seam. See sketch below. 口袋布用布條固定于胯下內(nèi)長(zhǎng)下 1 189。? 處 Ticket buckle inside right hand pocket, positioned 1? from pocket opening, is attached to upper corner with 3? grossgrain rib bon (3? finished length). 車(chē)票吊耳在右手口袋裡距開(kāi)口 1? 處，下端有完成長(zhǎng)度為 3? 的緞布織帶 Hand pocket bag length from WB seam: Men = 13?, Women = 12? (unless otherwise) 前口袋長(zhǎng)（從腰頭縫份處開(kāi)始量）男式為 13? ，女式為 12? （沒(méi)有特殊說(shuō)明的情況下） Back pocket bag length from WB seam: Men = 9?, Women = 8? (unless otherwise) 后口袋長(zhǎng)（從腰頭縫份處開(kāi)始量）男式為 9? ，女式為 8? （沒(méi)有