【正文】 ? 。? above hem. Ends are heat cut and have single fold hems and reinforced with bartack at fold. 腰絆帶要放在穿著下擺上 1/2? 處 , 織帶尾端先熱切割再反折進(jìn)去包住，最後打結(jié)固定 Vivian remarks客人澄清應(yīng)是到鬆緊帶 (Elastic),而不是下襬 (Hem) 前中表布蓋片 2L 擋風(fēng)下擺縫製方式 3/4”寬絆帶 條狀止滑鬆緊帶 擋風(fēng)下擺下端四合扣絆帶 尾端熱切 3L 擋風(fēng)下擺縫製方式 針織織帶 雙針尾端內(nèi)面加圓形 車(chē)線 (不須打結(jié) ) Tricot刷毛面經(jīng)向紋路需貼著補(bǔ)強(qiáng)點(diǎn) 2023/4/1 37 Powder skirt tab placement Vivian remarks織帶絆是用來(lái)勾褲耳用 女士擋風(fēng)下擺絆帶位置 男士擋風(fēng)下擺絆帶位置 鬆緊帶拉量 2023/4/1 38 Pant Features 褲子一般做工要求 CF Closure: 前中開(kāi)口 Men‘s and Women’s pants close Left over Right. 男式褲子和女式褲子開(kāi)口都是左片蓋住右片 Zipper fly: Fly inner flap is in Shell with Clean Finish lining. 有拉鏈的前立 ︰ 前立內(nèi)片用本布，裡布包光處理 Bottom of fly ends with a double bartack: One horizontal bartack to be at bottom of Jstitch next to front rise seam. And the other vertical bartack at top of Jhook 5/8? above horizontal bartack. 前立下端兩個(gè)打結(jié) ︰ 一個(gè)水平打結(jié)在 J 點(diǎn)下端，另一個(gè)在水平結(jié)在前立剪接線上 5/8? 處 . Ring Springs Snaps should be used at CF WB. 彈簧四合扣在前中腰頭 前中釦合是左蓋右 2023/4/1 39 Pant Features 褲子一般做工 Waistbands 腰頭 Waistband lining is Clean Finished into WB seam 腰頭裡布包光處理，車(chē)在腰頭縫份裡 Belt Loops are set into bottom WB seam. Bartacked 3/8? below and then bartacked to top edge of WB seam 褲耳一端固定于腰頭並在腰頭下 3/8? 處打結(jié)，另一端車(chē)在腰頭上端剪接線 If elastic is set throughout back WB, the Elastic should be tacked to CB WB 如果腰頭有鬆緊帶，鬆緊帶要固定于后中腰頭 WB Tab Hook and loop velcro should overlap 1? when pletely relaxed. 腰頭粘扣帶扣合後 ,勾面與毛面需有 1? 重合 打結(jié) 距離 3/8“加打結(jié) ,另有 1/8”鬆量 腰頭粘扣帶處?kù)斗朋犖恢脮r(shí) , 上下粘扣帶重疊份為 1“ 2023/4/1 40 Pant Features 調(diào)整式腰頭 穿者右邊腰頭 1/2示意圖 腰耳未在腰頂打結(jié)前示意圖 外露絆帶 2“1/2長(zhǎng) 後中 前中 粘扣帶毛面 4“長(zhǎng) 絆帶車(chē)在後腰頭 表布孔道下示意圖 表布絆帶 5“長(zhǎng) Taffeta從後中到絆帶 4“長(zhǎng) 1”寬鬆緊帶放在縫份及腰絆裡 4”長(zhǎng)毛面粘扣帶 2023/4/1 41 Pant Features 褲子一般做工 Pockets: 口袋做工 Zippers set into 189?！碧? 上膠的 taffeta 止滑鬆緊帶 1”寬彈力剪接片 2023/4/1 36 Jacket Features 夾克一般做工 Powderskirts:擋風(fēng)下襬 See below Powderskirt Setting to lining for 2L and 3L jackets 2L和 3L的夾克下擺擋風(fēng)片 做工請(qǐng)看下圖。? cuff tunnel 袖口處有 1? 的鬆緊帶，其中 190。? from zipper top and ending 189。如圖所示 。? from flap seam to allow seam taping. See Fig. 1. 拉鏈在包光處理蓋片下面，距剪接縫份 188。 Additional CF Facing 3/4? between the Shell Zipper and Zip In Zippers 在內(nèi)夾克和外夾克的拉鏈中間加間距 3/4? 寬的前內(nèi)貼 2 Chinguards cover inner CF 下顎擋風(fēng)片 需蓋住內(nèi)件前拉 Liner Jacket CF Zipper should be a Reverse Slider 內(nèi)夾克拉鏈的應(yīng)該是用反轉(zhuǎn)拉頭 下顎擋風(fēng)片 內(nèi)前拉 外前拉 2023/4/1 18 Jacket Features夾克一般做工 3Point System for TriClimates 兩件式夾克的表裡固定 Liner Jacket snaps into Shell Jkt at 3 points: CB neck and Cuffs 表裡夾克在後領(lǐng)中及左右袖口三處用扣子固定 Shell Jacket CB Neck lining has 18L Snap Tab and Liner Jacket has CB Neck Spaghetti Loop at exterior 外夾克后領(lǐng)內(nèi)有一 18L的扣子，內(nèi)夾克后領(lǐng)外有一個(gè)環(huán)。? below collar edge 粘扣帶在領(lǐng)上圍下 188。? from out seam to center of TNF logo 布繡花或熱轉(zhuǎn)印在左臀剪接中間，腰頭下 189。? Back logo is plaved 4 189。? above or below yoke seam. TNF 的繡花或熱轉(zhuǎn)印在左前胸和右后肩。其他用 到的隔層有成衣廠自己選擇 9 carbonated ball point needle is remended for down garment sewing. 鴨絨衣的縫製建議用 9 號(hào)圓頭炭針 Factory must calculate correct fabric shrinkage to match down filling 2023/4/1 7 附加的內(nèi)部信息 2023/4/1 8 General Features 總體做工要求 Zipper Cover Standards:拉鏈蓋片做工標(biāo)準(zhǔn) Zipper cover length = 3/8?. 拉鏈蓋片長(zhǎng)為 3/8? Regular Coil Zippers (set under flap) do not get zipper covers. 在口袋蓋片下的常見(jiàn)的尼龍拉鏈不用拉連蓋片 . Reverse Coil Zippers get bottom zipper cover only. (To cover the sharp metal piece)反齒尼龍拉鏈只用下拉鏈蓋片（蓋住金屬片） Pit Zippers should have top and bottom zipper covers regardless of the whether zipper is Coil or Reversed. (Unless zipper is bonded, then there are no zipper covers.)腋拉不管是尼龍還是反齒都要用上下蓋片（如果拉鏈?zhǔn)琴N和的，則不用拉鏈蓋片） Internal Pockets: No zipper covers are needed on any internal zippers. 內(nèi)口袋 ︰ 所有內(nèi)口袋都不用拉鏈蓋片 常規(guī)拉鍊無(wú)須拉鍊蓋片 金屬下止 反齒拉鍊須加下蓋片蓋住拉鍊下止 ,以防下止爪子刮傷人 表布蓋片 2023/4/1 9 General Features 一般做工要求 Zipper Covers vs. Zipper Garage:拉鏈蓋片和拉鏈車(chē)庫(kù) Zipper Covers are different from Zipper Zipper covers simply cover the metal zipper stopper. While zipper garages act as a ?garage? for the slider to sit under. 拉鏈蓋片只是蓋住拉鏈的金屬下止，而拉鏈車(chē)庫(kù)是用來(lái)放置拉頭的。? ， 防水拉鍊尾端用平車(chē)來(lái)回車(chē) 3次加固 . 圖一 圖二 隱藏打結(jié)用在外露式拉鍊 外露式打結(jié)用在拉鏈四周有貼裝飾膠 Vivian remarks客人建議用平車(chē)來(lái)回加固 3次比打結(jié)好 ) 2023/4/1 5 General Features 總體做工要求 Common Features:總體做工要求 All eyelets and grommets should be reinforced by shell fabric or washer, whichever most suitable. 合適的時(shí)候，所有 G眼需用本布或塑膠墊片加強(qiáng) .(eyelet gromment都是指 G眼 ) Grommet size mm with single mm shockcord. (應(yīng)是指內(nèi)徑 )的 G眼使用 . Grommet size mm with single 3 mm shockcord or with double mm shockcords. G眼使用 3mm的繩 . 或雙倍 寬的繩 .(shochcords =繩的統(tǒng)稱(chēng) ) If applicable, use appropriate sized washer with metal snaps for satisfactory performance. 為運(yùn)動(dòng)時(shí)的安全考慮 ,如果可行的話把大小合適的金屬四合釦和塑膠墊片一起使用 . All buttonholes should be reinforced by interlining. 所有鎖眼要用襯加強(qiáng) . All grossgrain tapes, drawcords, webbing and elastics should have heat cut ends. 所有綢緞?lì)惪棊Ш腕牼o帶都要用熱切 . All shockcord tunnels should be lined with a taffeta tunnel to allow the shockcord to run smoothly. See sketch on page 8. 有 shockcord的繩孔道都需多家ㄧ層 taffeta在孔道內(nèi) ,讓使使用者在使用繩子時(shí)能控制自如 .(可參考第 8頁(yè) ) Vivian remarks客人表示在開(kāi)發(fā)時(shí)可先不加 taffeta,等客人 ments再說(shuō) . All shockcords settings shall be looped and wrapped by 189。? ~ 189。 車(chē)庫(kù) (立體 ) 蓋片 (平的 ) 3/8”寬表布蓋片需蓋住整個(gè)金屬下止 外露式 pu貼合拉鍊 貼合拉鍊 ,上下端內(nèi)部加補(bǔ)強(qiáng)片 2023/4/1 10 General Features一般做工要求 Label Placement: See Sketch pgs 12, 13, 14 標(biāo)的位置 ︰ 參見(jiàn) Main label at CB neck 主標(biāo)車(chē)在后領(lǐng)中 2L Jackets have Care Label at Left side seam 5? from bottom hem edge. 2L夾克的警示標(biāo) ,車(chē)在左前外側(cè)距下擺 5? 處 3L Jackets have Care Label under powderskirt, set into seam where powderskirt taffeta meets mesh panel. 5? from Left CF. 3L的衣服警示標(biāo)在擋風(fēng)下擺下， tafetta 布和網(wǎng)布的剪接線處。?from CF and 6 189。? from outseam to the center of TNF logo Logo 位于從外長(zhǎng)到 TNF logo中間 2 189。? Logo距腰下 1/2“,距外長(zhǎng) 1”1/4 2023/4/1 16 Jacket Features 夾克一般做工要求 CF Closure: 前中門(mén)襟開(kāi)口 Men‘s and Women’