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days, chemical contaminants, pesticide runoff. And when it works its way through the system and leaves, the water is cleaner than when it entered. The system is so healthy, it purifies the water. So, not just a farm that doesn39。t feed its animals, not just a farm that measures its success by the health of its predators, but a farm that39。s literally a water purification plant, and not just for those fish, but for you and me as well. Because when that water leaves, it dumps out into the Atlantic. A drop in the ocean, I know, but I39。ll take it, and so should you, because this love story, however romantic, is also instructive. You might say it39。s a recipe for the future of good food, whether we39。re talking about bass or beef cattle. What we need now is a radically new conception of agriculture, one in which the food actually tastes good. (Laughter) (Applause) But for a lot people, that39。s a bit too radical. We39。re not realists, us foodies. We39。re lovers. We love farmers39。 markets. We love small family farms. We talk about local food. We eat organic. And when you suggest these are the things that will insure the future of good food, someone somewhere stands up and says, Hey guy, I love pink flamingos, but how are you going to feed the world? How are you going to feed the world? Can I be honest? I don39。t love that question. No, not because we already produce enough calories to more than feed the world. One billion people will go hungry today. One billion that39。s more than ever before because of gross inequalities in distribution, not tonnage. No, I don39。t love this question because it39。s determined the logic of our food system for the last 50 years. Feed grain to herbivores, pesticides to monocultures, chemicals to soil, chicken to fish, and all along agribusiness has simply asked, If we39。re feeding more people more cheaply, how terrible could that be? That39。s been the motivation, it39。s been the justification, it39。s been the business plan of American agriculture. We should call it what it is, a business in liquidation, a business that39。s quickly eroding ecological capital that makes that very production possible. That39。s not a business, and it isn39。t agriculture. Our bread basket is threatened today, not because of diminishing supply, but because of diminishing resources. Not by the latest bine and tractor invention, but by fertile land。 not by pumps, but by fresh water。 not by chainsaws, but by forests。 and not by fishing boats and nets, but by fish in the sea. Want to feed the world? Let39。s start by asking: How are we going to feed ourselves? Or better, How can we create conditions that enable every munity to feed itself? (Applause) To do that, don39。t look at the agribusiness model for the future. It39。s really old, and it39。s tired. It39。s high on capital, chemistry, and machines, and it39。s never produced anything really good to eat. Instead, let39。s look to the ecological model. That39。s the one that relies on two billion years of onthejob experience. Look to Miguel farmers like Miguel. Farms that aren39。t worlds unto themselves。 farms that restore instead of deplete。 farms that farm extensively instead of just intensively。 farmers that are not just producers, but experts in relationships. Because they39。re the ones that are experts in flavor too. And if I39。m going to be really honest, they39。re a better chef than I39。ll ever be. You know, I39。m okay with that, because if that39。s the future of good food, it39。s going to be delicious. Thank you. (Applause) 廚師丹?巴伯爾指出很多廚師正在左右為難的問題:如何把魚類留在菜單上。通過嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)?shù)恼{(diào)查和幽默的方式,巴伯爾講述了他尋求一條值得喜愛的“可持續(xù)性魚”的過程,以及自從發(fā)現(xiàn)了一種在西班牙用非傳統(tǒng)的方式養(yǎng)殖出來的極其美味的魚之后,他所享受到的美食家蜜月。自然生態(tài)生產(chǎn),或許是個美好而很烏托邦的事情,當(dāng)然地球所有人不可能都采用。但只要我們試圖改變,哪怕是一個人的努力,也會對自己有益,對環(huán)境有益,慢慢累加起來也是不小的收獲。