【導(dǎo)讀】©1.ment.data.,.Jiang,.Liew,.Chan,sectors(.researchers,industrysectors,andtraders)of. E-mailaddress:(.Chan).2.sources,ments,etc.,careeruniforms.

　　

【正文】 l weaveto its shorter floats.Fabric handIn the apparel industry, ‘hand’ has long been used as a conenient measure of fabric quality and prospective performancea particular fabric application. It is one of the most importantfactors which determine its acceptability. Fortunately,apparatus also enables the determination of fabric handautomatically integrating the examined fabric physicalsurface properties. The hand value determined on KESincludes the primary hand value (HV) and total handalue (THV). THV is a measure of tactile fort, expressedgeneral idea of a fabric hand, while HV gives the details likefness, fullness and softness, crispness, and the antidrapefness about fabric tactile property. In the present research,HV parameters we considered include Koshi, Fukurami,Numeri. Koshi (stiffness) is a stiff feeling promoted byspringiness of the fabric, mainly governed by the bendingof the fabric. Fukurami (fullness and softness) isbulky, rich, and welldeformed feeling. Fabric bulk andproperty thus plays a major role for this aspect.TPrimary(allyearSample156910MeanTPrimary(summer)Sample234711MeanTPrimary(winter)Sample81012MeanNumerifweawresultsroundsuitingsamplesNumeri. Chan et al. / Journal of Materials Processingable hand and total hand value of category I: outerwear clothing categoryround)no. Primary hand KN201MDY THV KN301WMDYKoshi Numeri Fukurami able hand and total hand value of category II: light clothing categoryno. Primary hand KN202DSSummer THV KN303DSSummerKoshi Numeri Fukurami able hand and total hand value of category III: outerwear clothing categoryno. Primary hand KN101Winter THV KN301WJacketKoshi Numeri Fukurami (smoothness) expresses a smooth touch feeling of theabric thus closely related to fabric surface property like fabricve and yarn structure.Due to their various end uses, different calculation methodas applied in the present study to the tested samples and thehave been illustrated in Tables –. The allyearouterwear clothing samples were assumed to be women’sfabric. For this category, no apparent difference in thewas observed in terms of their total hand value andvalue. A bigger variation was found in Koshi value witha6).vthegorycateofvdeservThesequalifiedclosecatecateitotherarewell4.indispensableificationEvminephysicalcallyhandmercialuniformstudyuniformuctreachedproductRefer[1][2][3]Technology 174 (2020) 183–189 189maximum of (sample 9) and minimum of (sampleSample 6 also exhibited the worst fullness property with aalue of and sample 10 is found to be most bulky one. Withcriteria for men’s dress shirt, the summer light clothing catewas found almost the best in every aspect than the other twogories especially in terms of THV with an averaged value, more than twice of that of the other two. Its Fukuramialue was also very outstanding with a mean value of . Alsoes mentioning was the Numeri value, which was .data showed that the samples in this category were veryfor summer uniform production since they are veryto body skin. The THV value of winter outerwear clothinggory is the worst of three despite its slight difference withgory I. Its Numeri value was also the lowest, telling thatwas the harshest to touch. However, considering that manyfabrics between the fabric and the body since the fabricsused for winter outerwear uniform, this deficiency might beignored.ConclusionsA clear picture of the mechanical properties of fabric isfor the prediction of garment appearance and specof the problems arising from the fabric itself. Kawabataaluation System is such a user friendly apparatus to deterfabric mechanical properties. It cannot only examine fabricand surface properties but also is capable of automatiintegrating these properties into a data to express the totalvalue of the fabric.The present authors conducted a series of KES tests on 12uniform materials. Results generated prove that thefabrics were good enough to serve their function. Thisis a big help for the understanding of the currently usedperformance so as to assist in fabric selection and prodcontrol during uniform development. In addition, the resultsmight even have potential application to other clothingas well.ences. Behera, . Ishtiaque, S. Chand, Comfort properties of fabricswoven from ring, rotor, and frictionspun yarns, J. Text. Inst. 88 (1997)255–264.. Cheng, . How, . Yick, The application of fabric objectivemeasurement in shirt manufacture, Int. J. Clothing Sci. Technol. 8 (4)(1996) 44–64.. Hearle, P. Grosberg, S. Backer, Structural Mechanics of Fibers,Yarns, and Fabrics, Wiley–Interscience, 1969