【正文】 Abstractinformationefgarmentindescribingsurely169。K1.andpropertiesduement.weightedreTshearthetoiousthemancedata.productionkand09240136/$doi:Journal of Materials Processing Technology 174 (2020) 183–189Evaluation of mechanical properties of uniformfabrics in garment manufacturing. Chan?, . Jiang, . Liew, . Chan,. Wong, . LauInstitute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong KongReceived 26 November 2020。 received in revised form 9 August 2020。 accepted 10 January 2020Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) is the first advanced and unique solution of user friendly testing of fabric mechanical properties. Theprovided by this system can enable remedial/preventive action to be taken in garment manufacturing so as to guarantee productionficiency and product performance since the mechanical properties of fabrics not only govern the performance of fabric products but also influencemaking operations. In the present research, this system was adopted to investigate the mechanical properties of uniform fabrics currentlyuse on the basis of 12 different mercial types of uniform materials obtained from different sources. All determination of the 16 parametersfabric mechanical properties was undertaken according to the prescribed procedure and required condition. The obtained results willhelp to identify the design criteria for uniform clothing so as to produce highquality career uniforms.2020 Elsevier . All rights reserved.eywords: Uniform。 Kawabata Evaluation SystemIntroduction The authors selected 12 different mercial types of uniThe Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) is the first advancedunique solution of user friendly testing of fabric mechanicaland has acquired great popularity in many countriesto their high precision and reproducibility in measureThis mercially very successful solution is basically agression analysis bining 16 factors, as shown inable 1, measuring in five separate tests, including pression, tensile, bending, and surface tests, and Fig. 1 illustratingmeasuring principle of KES system.With the information provided by this system, it is possiblerealize effective munications and cooperation among varsectors (. researchers, industry sectors, and traders) oftextile and clothing industries through specifying the perforrequirements and transactions based on fabric propertiesApart from this, this system also provides an approach forcontrol, an example of which is given in Table 2, mareting strategy, like what indicated in Table 3, quality assurance,new product development.?Corresponding author. Fax: +852 2773 1432.Email address: (. Chan).formfgeneratedandquality2.withsources,ments,etc.,sityparisonthreewearinpresentfedescribingprocedure– see front matter 169。 2020 Elsevier . All rights reserved.materials with various fiber content, blend position,abric weave, color, and end uses for the present study. Resultswill sure help understand the uniform performancemonitor the manufacture process so as to produce highcareer uniforms.ExperimentsTwelve currently used uniform fabrics were selected for the present studytheir details listed in Table 4. The samples were collected from differentincluding airline, bank, department store, and government departinvolved a wide range of end uses like skirt, jacket, trousers, blouses,and thus differed a lot in color, fiber content, blend position, den, thickness, weight, and fabric weave, as shown in Table 5. To ease theof fabric handle, the samples were further subcategorized intogroups according their different end uses, including allyearround outerclothing, summer light clothing, and winter outerwear clothing, as shownTable 6.Kawabata Evaluation System was the main testing apparatus used in theresearch due to its unique ability to examine fabric physical and surace properties as well as automatically integrate these properties into a data toxpress the total hand value of the fabric. All determination of the 16 parametersfabric mechanical properties was undertaken according to prescribedand required condition.184 . Chan et al. / Journal of Materials Processing Technology 174 (2020) 183–189Table 1The parameters measured on KES–F systemProperty Symbol Parameter measured UnitTensile EM Extensibility, the strain at 500 gf/cm [%]LT Linearity of tensile load–extension curve [–]WT Tensile energy per unit area [gf cm/cm2]RT Tensile resilience, the ability of recovering from tensile deformation [%]Bend B Bending rigidity, the average slope of the linear regions of the bendinghysteresis curve to 177。 cm?1curvature[gf cm2/cm]2HB Bending hysteresis, the average width of the bending hysteresis loop at177。 cm?1curvature[gf cm/cm]Shear G Shear rigidity, the average slop