【正文】 1 Garments Construction Standards 服裝制作標準 Contents 目錄 Section 1: Components and trims 成分和輔料 ? Fabric面料 ? Interlinings粘襯 ? Internal trims內(nèi)部輔料 ? Linings里布 ? Threads縫紉線 ? Zips拉鏈 ? Buttons紐扣 ? Fastenings, rivets and studs扣合件，鉚釘和工字扣 ? Trims, belts and motifs飾邊，腰繩和花邊 ? Elastication橡筋 ? Accessories服飾配件 Section 2: Manufacturing guidelines生產(chǎn)指導 ? Garments衣服 ? Accessories服飾配件 Section 3: Presentation guidelines外觀指導 ? Pressing熨燙 ? Finished Goods整理 ? Labels標牌 ? Packing包裝 Section 4: Safety安全性 ? Garments衣服 ? Accessories服飾配件 ? Replacement Needle Procedure斷針紀錄 ? Good Housekeeping Guide良好的管理指導 Section 5: Children‘s Safety Requirements童裝安全性要求 ? Fabric / Materials面料 / 原料 ? Components成分 ? Design Aspects設計外觀 ? Textile Accessories紡織輔料 ? Metal Content金屬物料 ? Toxicity毒性 ? Nickel鎳 ? Lab Test測試 2 Internal trim內(nèi)部裝飾 For menswear Poly/cotton woven pocketing must be used. 必須用滌 /棉梭織物做男裝口袋布 。 Lining里料 ? For padded garments the lining must be quilted or stitched at appropriate intervals to prevent the padding from falling. Padding must not escape through the weave of the outer fabric of the inner lining. 對于有填充物的衣服，里料必須衍縫或加縫適當間距的緝線防止填充物陷落。填充物不能透出里布面料。 ? Lining must not be visible beyond the hemline of cuffs of a garment. The lining must finish cm(1inch)above the hem, and cover the hem stitching. 里料不能吐露服裝下擺及克夫。必須在擺上 (1英寸 )處修光邊且遮蓋下擺縫跡。 The fibres used in the lining must be stated on the care lab 里布面料成分必須注明在洗標上 。 Sewing thread 縫紉線 ? Must be a good colour match unless intended as a contrast. 必須良好配色除非設計成撞色 。 ? Must be colourfast to washing and light. 在 洗滌及光照下不能褪色 。 ? 100% Polyester thread must be used on products with low flammability requirements. 要求必須用低燃點的 100%聚脂纖維縫紉線 。 ? Bulk thread should be used in overlock loopers when sewing Elastane fabrics. 縫制彈性面料時必須用包縫線跡。 ? Monofilament thread is not acceptable for use at any time. 任何情況下都禁止使用單纖維縫線。 3 SECTION 1 COMPONENTS AND TRIMS 第一部分 成分和輔料 The following section gives a summary of the general quality assurance procedures for ponents trims. 以下部分將列出關(guān)于服裝部件的一般品質(zhì)保證程序概要。 All ponents trims must be suitable for the after care of the garment according to the wash care instructions given. 所有服裝部件必須與服裝上的洗標所顯示的內(nèi)容相吻合。 Fabric 面料 ? Take care to make sure that all fabrics with raised fibers that produce a nap, or fabric that is ?cut one way‘ design, are cut so that separate panels and separate garment pieces run in the same direction. 注意所有拉絨的凸面織物，或設計為以一個方向裁剪的面料，必須以同方向縫制拼片和服裝部件。 ? Fabric faults are not acceptable in garments unless they are inherent in the fabric and are agreed at the buying stage. 不接受服裝面料上的疵點除非是緣于面料本身固有的問題造成的或疵點在客人接受的范圍內(nèi)。 ? Variations of shading are unacceptable within a garment, or from one garment to another. Garment pieces must be numbered after cutting. 不接受同一件服裝上的色差或服裝間的缸差。開裁后的 服裝裁片必須編號 防止產(chǎn)生色差。 Interlinings 粘襯 ? Garments showing ?delamination‘ (bubbling), glue marks or strike through caused by interlining are not acceptable. All interlinings must be applied using correct temperatures with fusing machines tested at regular intervals. 不接受由于粘襯導致服裝上的分層，起泡，露膠或者穿透。所有的粘襯必須用熱熔機械以正確的溫度粘貼并且定期測試。 4 Zips 拉鏈 ? Only zips approved by BS are accepted. 只接受經(jīng)過公司確認的拉鏈。 Spring lock or auto lock zips must be used. Auto lock zips are preferred. Pintuck zips are not acceptable. 必須用彈簧鎖或自動鎖頭拉練。首選用自動鎖頭拉練。不能用大頭針拉練。 The base of an openended zip must be reinforced where attached to the fabric. The zip slider must not be obstructed. 拉鏈縫到面料上底端開口處必須加固，上下拉動拉鏈時不能有生澀的感覺。 The tops of the zips should be secured with a top zip stop where necessary. No sharp edges should protrude at the top. All surplus zip teeth should be removed. 拉鏈頂端需要處必須有齒止安全保護。頂端不能有突出的鋒利邊緣，多余的拉齒必須剪掉。 There must be no sharp edges exposed at the bottom of the zip tape. These must be trimmed back or if possible enclosed in the hem fabric. All metal parts must be removed. 拉鏈碼帶底部不能留有鋒利的邊緣，反面必須修光，如果縫于下擺上，所有的金屬部分必須清除。 Buttons 紐扣 ? All garments must carry a spare button of each ligne used. There must be 2 spare buttons if the garment has 10 buttons or more. 所有的服裝上每個款式的紐扣必須留有一顆備紐，若服裝上有十顆或者更多此款紐扣，必須留有兩顆備鈕。 ? Buttons must be securely attached using a lockstitch machine. 紐扣必須用鎖式縫紉線釘扣機縫釘牢固。 ? Metal ponents must be nickel free. 金屬成分中不能含鎳。 ? Non toxic buttons must be used. 紐扣必須無毒性。 ? Buttons used on childrenswear must not be twopart. 童裝上的紐扣不能是可以分成兩個部分的類型。 ? Buttons used on childrenswear must not represent any form of food substance. 童裝上的紐扣不能有任何和食物主旨相關(guān)的圖案。 5 Fastenings, poppers, and studs 扣合件，銬紐和工字扣 ? Fastening must be securely attached to the garment without causing damage to the fabric of the fastener itself. There must be no sharp edges 扣合件必須安全牢固得縫制在服裝上且不能由于扣合件本身導致面料破損，不能有尖銳的邊緣。 ? Metal fasteners and ponents must not rust after washing. 金屬扣合件和輔料水洗后不能生銹。 ? Post fasteners must not be used on woven fabrics and prongs on knitted fabrics. 扣合件中的紐柱不能用于梭織面料，不能插在針織面料上。 ? The length of the post or prong must be appropriate for the fabric thickness. 紐柱的長度或襠叉必須適合面料的厚度。 ? Lightweight knitted fabrics may require interlining to prevent laddering. 薄型針織面料可能需要夾層防止線圈脫落。 ? All garments with fastenings must be opened and closed during inspection.