【正文】 Dan Barber: How I fell in love with a fish我一生中接觸過(guò)很多魚。 只有兩種是我的最愛(ài)。 第一種， 是源于激情。 它是一條美麗的魚， 美味，紋理細(xì)膩，肉質(zhì)豐富， 是菜單上最受歡迎的魚。 多么美的魚?。?（笑聲） 更好的是， 它是依照最高標(biāo)準(zhǔn)養(yǎng)殖的， 目的是保持它的可持續(xù)性的。 而賣他的人也會(huì)感到心安理得。So, I39。ve known a lot of fish in my life. I39。ve loved only two. That first one, it was more like a passionate affair. It was a beautiful fish, flavorful, textured, meaty, a bestseller on the menu. What a fish. (Laughter) Even better, it was farmraised to the supposed highest standards of sustainability. So you could feel good about selling it. 我曾經(jīng)沉醉于這美麗的關(guān)系中， 時(shí)間大概延續(xù)了幾個(gè)月。 有一天，這個(gè)公司的高層打電話給我 邀請(qǐng)我參加一個(gè)活動(dòng) 并就漁業(yè)的可持續(xù)性發(fā)展發(fā)表演說(shuō)。 我說(shuō)，“當(dāng)然可以”。 這個(gè)公司正是要試圖解決一個(gè) 對(duì)于我們廚師來(lái)說(shuō)正在變得不可想象的問(wèn)題。 “我們?nèi)绾伟阳~類留在菜單上？”I was in a relationship with this beauty for several months. One day, the head of the pany called and asked if I39。d speak at an event about the farm39。s sustainability. Absolutely, I said. Here was a pany trying to solve what39。s bee this unimaginable problem for our chefs. How do we keep fish on our menus? 在過(guò)去的50年中， 我們從各個(gè)海洋中捕魚 就像是砍伐樹木。 絕不是夸大它的破壞性。 90%的大型魚類，那些我們喜愛(ài)的種類， 金槍魚，大比目魚，三鮭魚，劍魚， 他們都要滅絕了。 幾乎沒(méi)有多少剩下了。 所以，不管是好是壞， 水產(chǎn)養(yǎng)殖業(yè)，養(yǎng)魚業(yè)，都會(huì)成為我們未來(lái)的一部分。 有很多針對(duì)這個(gè)行業(yè)的言論。 其實(shí)它們大部分都是關(guān)于養(yǎng)魚業(yè)會(huì)污染環(huán)境， 而且效率很低，比如說(shuō)金槍魚。 最大的弊病就是， 養(yǎng)殖金槍魚的飼料轉(zhuǎn)換率是 15比1。 這個(gè)意思是說(shuō)，每生產(chǎn)1磅金槍魚肉 要耗費(fèi)15磅用其他野生魚類做的飼料。 這可不是很具有可持續(xù)發(fā)展性。 而且也不好吃。 For the past 50 years, we39。ve been fishing the seas like we clearcut forests. It39。s hard to overstate the destruction. 90 percent of large fish, the ones we love, the tunas, the halibuts, the salmons, swordfish, they39。ve collapsed. There39。s almost nothing left. So, for better or for worse, aquaculture, fish farming, is going to be a part of our future. A lot of arguments against it. Fish farms pollute, most of them do anyway, and they39。re inefficient, take tuna. A major drawback. It39。s got a feed conversion ratio of 15 to one. That means it takes fifteen pounds of wild fish to get you one pound of farm tuna. Not very sustainable. Doesn39。t taste very good either. 最后， 這個(gè)公司想做些正確事情。 我也想支持他們。 在那次活動(dòng)的前一天， 我聯(lián)系了公司的公關(guān)部門頭頭。 就讓我們暫且稱呼他為“唐閣下”。 So here, finally, was a pany trying to do it right. I wanted to support them. The day before the event I called the head of PR for the pany. Let39。s call him Don. 我說(shuō)：“唐閣下， 據(jù)我說(shuō)知，事實(shí)是這樣的，你們?cè)诤Ｑ蟛遏~業(yè)十分出名， 而且你們不會(huì)產(chǎn)生污染?！盌on, I said, just to get the facts straight, you guys are famous for farming so far out to sea, you don39。t pollute. 他回應(yīng)： “你說(shuō)的對(duì)。我們作業(yè)的地點(diǎn)很遠(yuǎn)， 我們捕魚所產(chǎn)生的污染物都被稀釋掉了， 不會(huì)集中殘留在一個(gè)地方?！?然后他補(bǔ)充到， “我們算得上是獨(dú)樹一幟。 飼料轉(zhuǎn)換率？，” 他說(shuō)。 “行業(yè)中最好的?！盩hat39。s right, he said. We39。re so far out, the waste from our fish gets distributed, not concentrated. And then he added, We39。re basically a world unto ourselves. That feed conversion ratio? to one, he said. Best in the business. ，很好。 “？你們?cè)谖故裁矗俊?他回答道：“可持續(xù)性蛋白質(zhì)”。 to one, great. to one what? What are you feeding? Sustainable proteins, he said. 我說(shuō)：“很好”。然后掛了電話。 結(jié)果那晚，我躺在床上想： 可持續(xù)性蛋白質(zhì)是什么鬼東西？ （笑聲） Great, I said. Got off the phone. And that night, I was lying in bed, and I thought: What the hell is a sustainable protein? (Laughter) 所以第二天，就在那個(gè)活動(dòng)之前，我打電話給唐閣下。 我問(wèn)道：39。唐閣下，你有沒(méi)有一些可持續(xù)性蛋白質(zhì)的例子？So the next day, just before the event, I called Don. I said, Don, what are some examples of sustainable proteins? 他說(shuō)他不知道。他會(huì)去問(wèn)問(wèn)周圍的人。 然后，我和這個(gè)公司里的一些人通了電話。 但是沒(méi)有人能給我一個(gè)明確的答案。 直到最后，我通上了電話 對(duì)方是生物學(xué)專家。 讓我也暫且叫他 “唐閣下”。 （笑聲）He said he didn39。t know. He would ask around. Well, I got on the phone with a few people in the pany. No one could give me a straight answer. Until finally, I got on the phone with the head biologist. Let39。s call him Don too. (Laughter) 我說(shuō)：“唐閣下” “可以舉例說(shuō)明一下可持續(xù)性蛋白質(zhì)嗎？” 恩，他提到了一些藻類 還有一些魚食， 然后他提到雞丸。 我問(wèn)道： “雞丸?” 他說(shuō)，“是，羽毛，雞皮， 骨骼，排泄物， 被曬干加工后添入飼料。Don, I said, what are some examples of sustainable proteins? Well, he mentioned some algaes and some fish meals, and then he said chicken pellets. I said, Chicken