【正文】 所有用扣合件的服裝在檢查時(shí)必須查核扣合件的開閉情況。 ? All fastenings must meet customers pull test regulations. 所有扣合件必須經(jīng)過客人的拉力測試規(guī)則。 ? Record of pull testing should be kept for 1 year. 拉力測試記錄應(yīng)當(dāng)保持一年。 Belts, trims and motifs 腰帶，飾邊和花邊 ? If detachable trims . belts, are not washable, this must shown on the sewnin care label. 可脫卸的裝飾物例如腰帶等，若不可水洗，必須在洗標(biāo)上注明。 ? If motifs prints and trims can‘t be ironed, this must be shown on the sewnin label. 若裝飾物或印花不可熨燙，必須在洗標(biāo)上注明。 ? There must be backing on fabric of washable belts. 可水洗的繩帶必須在面料上打回針牢固。 Elastication 橡筋 ? Stitching must not crack. 縫制時(shí)不能斷裂。 ? The join of the elastic must be secured by double stitching to at least 2cm. 接縫橡筋時(shí)必須安全雙縫牢固至少 2公分左右。 ? Elastic should be attached in a way that prevents twisting or rolling. Any fullness must be distributed evenly. 縫制橡筋時(shí)必須采取不能產(chǎn)生卷翹起伏現(xiàn)象的方法，任何寬松位必須均勻分布。 Accessories 服飾配件 ? All attachments and finishes must be free from rust, tarnish and sharp edges. 所有配件飾物必須不能生銹，失去光澤或有尖銳邊緣。 ? Belts must always be fastened in the center hole. 腰繩必須在孔管中固定。 ? Belts should always be kimbal attached to garment for security. 腰繩必須系扎在服裝上以防安全。 6 SECTION 2 MANUFACTURING GUIDELINES 第二部分 生產(chǎn)指導(dǎo) Garments 衣服 ? The way garments are cut。 put together and finished will influence their appearance and durability due to the garments being worn often. 服裝裁剪時(shí)，面料必須放在一起且同時(shí)完成影響外觀的整理及經(jīng)常穿著所需的耐磨處理。 ? All excess threads must be trimmed and removed from the garment. 服裝上的浮線必須清理修剪干凈。 ? Stitching must be correctly spaced and tensioned to make sure there is no seam grinning, but the seam must stretch in relation to the fabric properties. Do not use lock stitch on stretch fabrics. We remend 10 to 12 stitches in every of woven fabrics, but the seam must stretch in relation to the fabric properties. 縫紉必須有適當(dāng)?shù)拈g距和松緊度防止爆口，同時(shí)應(yīng)根據(jù)面料特性適當(dāng)具有彈性。不要用鎖式線跡縫紉彈性面料。對(duì)于梭織面料推薦每 1012針，但縫紉應(yīng)根據(jù)面料特性具有彈性。 ? All visible raw edges of woven fabrics must be overlocked or neatened. 面料上所有可見毛邊必須鎖邊或清理干凈。 ? A single thread chain stitch is not acceptable. 不接受單線鏈?zhǔn)娇p跡。 ? All back rise seams should be twothread chain stitch or double row lock stitch. 所有后檔縫應(yīng)當(dāng)用雙針鏈?zhǔn)娇p跡或雙行鎖式線跡。 ? All neck closure seams should be 1cm past the shoulder seam towards the back of the garment. 所有頸縫末段處應(yīng)當(dāng)在服裝背面向后過肩縫 1公分。 ? The edges of quilted garment parts must be stitched before the parts are assembled. 對(duì)于有填充物的衍縫服裝部件，在組合前必須先緝邊縫。 ? Felting should be latched off with no run back of loose ends. 氈毯類織物必須鎖邊防止脫散。 ? To prevent Elastane runback and needle damage on Elastane blend fabrics, we remend you use ballpoint needles. 為了防止橡筋縫在面料上時(shí)脫散以及受縫紉針損傷，推薦用圓頭針縫紉。 ? Shoulder tape must be used for knitwear and jerseywear. 針織物和毛衫類必須有肩帶。 7 ? All pockets, sleeves cuffs and collar points must be paired. 所有口袋，袖克夫和領(lǐng)尖必須是成雙的。 ? All stress points (. belt loops, crotch seams, etc.) must be adequately reinforced. 所有的受力點(diǎn)，例如腰袢，襠縫處等必須充分加固。 ? Buttonholes must be lock stitched and they must have sufficient stitch density to avoid fraying. For jeans and trousers use gimp thread in buttonholes 紐孔必須鎖邊并且針腳密度足夠防止散邊。對(duì)于牛仔和褲裝要求用辮式鎖眼。 ? On pocket top corners must be adequately reinforced either by triangle tack or bar tack. 口袋上角必須用三角針或打套結(jié)充分加固。 ? On jeans the placket / fly area should be faced or double fabric thickness. 牛仔服裝上 /下門襟處必須貼面或雙層厚度本布面料。 Woven must also be fused. There must be at least one bartack to reinforce the bottom of the placket. The fly facing or shield should be tapered and reinforced with tacking or fabric tape. The zip should be sturdy enough for the garment fabric and adequate length to easily put on the jeans. The zippers for the jeans must have a lock feature. 梭織物同樣需要如此保險(xiǎn)，門襟底部需要至少一個(gè)套結(jié)加固。褲門襟貼片或腋下貼片必須是錐形的并且打套結(jié)或用本布帶加固。拉鏈相對(duì)于服裝面料必須有足夠強(qiáng)度且長度適當(dāng)方便牛仔穿脫。牛仔上的拉鏈必須有鎖頭特征。 That is that the zip puller should remain at the top when stress is applied. 對(duì)拉鏈?zhǔn)┝r(shí)拉鏈頭不能脫出。 ? Also on jeans flat fell seams double or triple stitching provides flat, firm enclosed seams. These must be smoothly constructed. This seam construction encases the seam allowance so there is no raveling during wearing or washing. If seams are not fell flat, you must ensure seams are serged (overcast) to cover the raw edges and thus prevent raveling. 對(duì)于牛仔衣物需要用雙線或三線外包縫的線跡保證止口平直牢固。拼接平穩(wěn)滑順。拼接縫包圍住縫頭不至于穿著或水洗時(shí)脫散。如果接縫不是外包邊，必須確?？p頭鎖邊并遮住毛邊防止散邊。 Stitch/ seam types 緝線 /拼縫類型 ? Lock stitch 鎖式縫跡 Used for topstitching, French seams, attaching trims and ponents, lining, collar and cuff seams. 用于輯明線，來去縫，拼縫輔料和服裝組件，里料，領(lǐng)子以及克夫拼縫處。 ? Double lockchain stitch 雙線鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡。 8 ? 4thread overlock四線包縫 Used for seams on fleece, light and medium weight wovens and knitwear. 用于起絨織物，輕薄及中等克重梭織物和毛衫類拼縫。 ? 5thread overlock 五線包縫 Used for seams on jeans, medium and heavy weight wovens. 用于牛仔，中等和厚重梭織物拼縫 ? Flatlock 繃縫 Used on jerseywear as a decorative feature. 用于毛衫作為裝飾線 ? Coverseam 包邊縫 Back neck finish for Tshirt and knitwear. Decorative at hems. 用于 T恤及毛衫類后頸折光處以及在下擺處作裝飾。 Used for multineedle elastication 用于多針橡筋。 ? 3 thread overlock 三線包縫 Used for seams on Tshirts. 用于 T恤拼縫。 Accessories 服飾配件 ? All items must be securely fixed and must work as intended. 所有的配件必須安全牢固得縫制在服裝上并保持賦予它的功能。 ? Decorative detailing such as embroidery, contrasting pocket inserts or piping should be evenly and smoothly applied. 裝飾細(xì)節(jié)例如繡花，撞色袋嵌線或包邊等縫制必須均勻圓順。 ? Buttonholes should be function