【正文】 合件的開閉情況。 ? Record of pull testing should be kept for 1 year. 拉力測試記錄應當保持一年。 ? If motifs prints and trims can‘t be ironed, this must be shown on the sewnin label. 若裝飾物或印花不可熨燙，必須在洗標上注明。 Elastication 橡筋 ? Stitching must not crack. 縫制時不能斷裂。 ? Elastic should be attached in a way that prevents twisting or rolling. Any fullness must be distributed evenly. 縫制橡筋時必須采取不能產生卷翹起伏現象的方法，任何寬松位必須均勻分布。 ? Belts must always be fastened in the center hole. 腰繩必須在孔管中固定。 6 SECTION 2 MANUFACTURING GUIDELINES 第二部分 生產指導 Garments 衣服 ? The way garments are cut。 ? All excess threads must be trimmed and removed from the garment. 服裝上的浮線必須清理修剪干凈。不要用鎖式線跡縫紉彈性面料。 ? All visible raw edges of woven fabrics must be overlocked or neatened. 面料上所有可見毛邊必須鎖邊或清理干凈。 ? All back rise seams should be twothread chain stitch or double row lock stitch. 所有后檔縫應當用雙針鏈式縫跡或雙行鎖式線跡。 ? The edges of quilted garment parts must be stitched before the parts are assembled. 對于有填充物的衍縫服裝部件，在組合前必須先緝邊縫。 ? To prevent Elastane runback and needle damage on Elastane blend fabrics, we remend you use ballpoint needles. 為了防止橡筋縫在面料上時脫散以及受縫紉針損傷，推薦用圓頭針縫紉。 7 ? All pockets, sleeves cuffs and collar points must be paired. 所有口袋，袖克夫和領尖必須是成雙的。 ? Buttonholes must be lock stitched and they must have sufficient stitch density to avoid fraying. For jeans and trousers use gimp thread in buttonholes 紐孔必須鎖邊并且針腳密度足夠防止散邊。 ? On pocket top corners must be adequately reinforced either by triangle tack or bar tack. 口袋上角必須用三角針或打套結充分加固。 Woven must also be fused. There must be at least one bartack to reinforce the bottom of the placket. The fly facing or shield should be tapered and reinforced with tacking or fabric tape. The zip should be sturdy enough for the garment fabric and adequate length to easily put on the jeans. The zippers for the jeans must have a lock feature. 梭織物同樣需要如此保險，門襟底部需要至少一個套結加固。拉鏈相對于服裝面料必須有足夠強度且長度適當方便牛仔穿脫。 That is that the zip puller should remain at the top when stress is applied. 對拉鏈施力時拉鏈頭不能脫出。拼接平穩(wěn)滑順。如果接縫不是外包邊，必須確?？p頭鎖邊并遮住毛邊防止散邊。 ? Double lockchain stitch 雙線鏈式線跡。 ? 5thread overlock 五線包縫 Used for seams on jeans, medium and heavy weight wovens. 用于牛仔，中等和厚重梭織物拼縫 ? Flatlock 繃縫 Used on jerseywear as a decorative feature. 用于毛衫作為裝飾線 ? Coverseam 包邊縫 Back neck finish for Tshirt and knitwear. Decorative at hems. 用于 T恤及毛衫類后頸折光處以及在下擺處作裝飾。 ? 3 thread overlock 三線包縫 Used for seams on Tshirts. 用于 T恤拼縫。 ? Decorative detailing such as embroidery, contrasting pocket inserts or piping should be evenly and smoothly applied. 裝飾細節(jié)例如繡花，撞色袋嵌線或包邊等縫制必須均勻圓順。 ? Quality pockets have edges carefully turned and have been placed evenly and securely on the garment. 口袋邊緣謹慎翻轉并且平坦牢固得縫于衣服上。 Hems should be even, flat and securely stitched before pressing, as this problem will not press out after customer washes it. 下擺在熨燙前必須均勻平坦且縫制牢固，以保證顧客在清洗衣物后不會產生任何問題。 ? Garments should not be creased, crushed or glazed, Impressions must not be visible in any area. 服裝不能有折皺，受擠壓或產生表面極光。 ? Before packing all garments should be cleared of loose threads, loose fibres and any work tickets. 包裝服裝前必須清除一切浮線，纖維以及任何工作票據。 ? Ribs must not be steam pressed. 羅紋組織不能用蒸氣熨斗熨燙。 ? If garments do not fit size of box, suitable packaging is to be used. 如果服裝不適合箱形，需要采取適當的折疊方式。 Pressing 整燙 ? Pre pressing ensure the characteristics of the fabric are assessed. 預燙 ——確保正確評估面料的特性。 ? Presses should be adjusted to avoid glazing, Distortion, colour changes, press creases and damage to fabric. 整燙時適當調節(jié)溫度防止產生極光，扭曲變形，變色，折痕以及破壞面料。 ? All seams to be pressed consistently in one direction. 所有拼縫必須始終按照一個方向壓燙。 ? All linings must be smooth with no impressions on the lining or outer whole garment must be pressed. 所有里料必須平滑且面里料不能有燙痕。 10 Dolly Pressing/Steam Cabis 墊布燙 / 蒸氣柜 ? These must only be used where a satisfactory finish can be achieved on the particular garment and fabric type. 僅用于為達到滿意的整理效果的特殊服裝和面料。 ? Frames must be used wherever possible to standardize shape. 用框架使服裝外形盡可能標準化。 ? All garments must be given sufficient time to relax and dry thoroughly prior to packing. 包裝前所有的服裝都必須給予充分的時間閑置并且完全干燥。 ? The following points should be addressed: 以下幾點必須聲明： All garments should act in accordance with British and International Standards. 所有服裝生產都必須符合英國和國際上的標準。 The bulk production should conform to the individual customers seal of approval. 大貨必須完全同客人確認的封樣。 ? All sew in labels must be neatly and securely attached with all printing clearly visible. 所有商標的縫制必須牢固整潔并且印刷字跡清晰可見。 Packing 包裝 ? Style number and size should be on front of the poly bag. 款號和尺碼必須顯示于膠袋正面。 ? All packing should be as instructed on the purchase orders. 所有包裝方式必須按照訂單上的指示。 ? We expect you to take all possible precautions to make sure that no full or part needle remains in garments. 我們要求供應商采取一切可能的預防措施防止整根或部分斷針殘留在服裝上。這些程序必須有可證明的文件并定期更新已備我們需要時檢查。 ? If we find a full or part needle in a garment, this is classified as critical fault and will result in the product being rejected or recalled from stores, resulting in the whole delivery being rejected. 如果在服裝上發(fā)現一根全針或斷針，這會被劃分為極其危險的疵點將直接導致拒收貨物或取消此批貨物。 ? All ponents should be non toxic. 所有的成分必須是沒有毒性的。 ? Samples must be sent with paperwork signed, this will include measurements and any ments of observation. 寄樣衣時必須攜帶簽名文書，其中包括尺寸測量