【正文】
rinting in the cuffs,skirt parts and other clothing positions formed a variety of fabric redesign styles. The fabric redesign enriched the fashion aesthetic effect, greatly decorated people39。s life, and reflected the freedom, open society ideas of the Tang dynasty. Till the Ming dynasty, in addition to the traditional fabric redesign techniques of weaving and embroidery, the fabric splicing redesign technology also prevailed with its unique color and visual feature, the “paddy fields dress” is a good representative. “Paddy fields dress” is a women’s usual clothing in the Ming dynasty, it was made by colorful and different shaped cloth fragments splicing and sewing, just like the cassock worn by the monks, it is named because the whole garment’s material and color intercrossed resembles the paddy.The Qing dynasty was the last feudal dynasty in Chinese history, textile and garment production technologies had accumulated to reach the peak of feudal society at that time. The type of fabric anddecoration was very abundant. The “official patch” followed the Ming dynasty but developed in the Qing dynasty represented the high fabric redesign and product techniques of Qing. The “patch” made by varieties of embroidered silk thread through weaving and embroidery, its patterns was vivid and colorful. Due to its limited quantity, the “patch” now bees the rare antiquity and art treasure of the Chinese nation。 it’s also the crystallization of the fabric redesign art in ancient Chinese history.Fabric redesign reflects the social political hierarchyStarting from the Xia dynasty, China gradually experienced the long social formations from slavery to feudalism, during this very long history of nearly 5000 Years, political hierarchy was the core system of each dynasty, and became the important tool for the rulers to control the power and wealth.Chinese costume culture es into being with Chinese civilization. Social production improvement leads to the continuous development of fabric reconstruction design. Weaving, embroidery, patch, inlay, painting and the other fabric redesign techniques had taken their variousleading position, but in the hierarchy of ancient Chinese history, fabric redesign must be strictly according to the rule.Ceremonial dress was a typical representative of clothing system under the ancient rites。 it was worn by emperor while worshiping the heaven, earth, ancestral temple and other worship ritual. Ceremonial dresses’ patterns were redesigned by painting, dyeing and embroidering methods to show their identity and status. Ceremonial dress has six grades, namely Qiu Mian, Gun Mian, Bi Mian, Hui Mian, Cui Mian, Xi Mian and Xuan Mian, there are patterns redesigned by embroidering, respectively, twelve heraldries, nine heraldries, seven heraldries, five heraldries, three heraldries and one heraldry。 their corresponding wearing object is King, Duke, Comte, Baron, Gu and Qing. The building of ceremonial dress rule was the symbol of the centralized feudal state in Chinese ancient society. There were different interest groups and social stratum ruled by the emperor through the social political hierarchy. Each social stratum had their own clothing distinguished from other stratums, the lower orders can’t wear the higher stratums’. The ceremony dress was the special dress of princes andnobles, each class should wear corresponding costume embroidered with certain quantity heraldries patterns。 the emperor was also required to wear corresponding ceremony dress at different occasions.The “patch” was another typical representative of social political hierarchy by the fabric redesign method during the Ming and Qing dynasty. The “patch” originated in the Tang dynasty, but it’s really used to distinguish the officials’ ranking at the Ming and Qing dynasty. The “patch” was posted outside the official robe or gown with a silk woven fabric embroidered with different patterns. Civil officials used bird patterns, while the military officials used beast patterns. According to the different official ranking, the corresponding redesigned embroidery patterns are different, such as shown in Fig. 2, the patterns for the first grade of civilian is the redcrowned crane, the second grade is embroidered with golden pheasant pattern, and the third is peacock pattern, etc. At the Ming and Qing dynasty, the rule of the “patch” dress was very strict, the officials were separated into nine degrees, the lower ranking officials must not exceed their degree to wear a higher ranking’s patch.Fig. 2. The first, second and third grade patch of civilianFabrics redesign contains auspicious wishes and symbolic implicationIn Chinese history, fabric redesign was often loaded with abundant auspicious symbol and meaning. Various fabric redesign methods, such as embroidery, dyeing, painting, were used to express their best wishes of life, or show the symbolic implication to the wearer39。s identity, characterand status. In ancient China, the number nine and five usually symbolized nobility, so people adopted fabric redesign method, embroidered nine dragons’ pattern on emperor39。s robes, namely Dragon Robe. In addition, each piece of the dragon robe had five dragons when viewed from the front or back aspect separately. So the Dragon Robe always stands for the extreme kingship, is a good example of using auspicious numbers to express symbolic implication through fabric embroidery redesign.[1]The embroidery patterns on the “patch” used on official costume in the Ming and Qing dynasty also contained profound symbolic meaning. The civilians were courteous and gentle, so the birds patterns were adopt to symbolize their virtuous character。 the military officials were bold and powerful, the wild beast patterns were embroidered to symbolize their dignity. Fabric reconstruction design of the insert sewing is a mon way used in Chinese folk costumes, cloud shoulder is representative. The cloud shoulder is j