【文章內(nèi)容簡(jiǎn)介】 is sewn from lightweight fabric, but if the fabric is heavy, lining material can be used instead. Bias facings are narrower and less conspicuous than shaped facings, and since they require less fabric, they’re both more fortable to wear next to the skin and more economical to sew. There are two disadvantages to these facings, however. When a bias facing is applied, the garment edge is rarely interfaced and may not be as smooth. And since the bias facing is usually slipstitched to the garment, it’s sometimes difficult to prevent the stitches from showing on the outside of the garment. Most bias facings are finished so they’re about 1/2 in. wide, but they can be as narrow as 1/4 in. on a jewel neckline and as wide as 2 in. at the waist of a skirt. Generally, the wider the bias facing, the more difficult it is to shape it to a curved edge. Before applying a bias facing, finish the garment edge. Fold the seam allowance to the wrong side and baste 1/8 in. to 1/4 in. from the edge. Clip as needed to make the edge lie flat. With the wrong side up, press the edge. Measure the garment edge to be faced and cut a bias strip several inches longer, or join several strips for the length you need. For a 11/2in. wide facing, the strip should be 1 in. wide for straight edges and 11/2 for curved edges. Fold one of the long edges under 1/4 in. This is best acplished by folding 6 in. at one time and pleating the folded edge with your hands into 1in. pleats so the edge will stay folded without pressing, which might stretch it. Begin with the wrong side up and match the wrong side of the bias strip to the wrong side of the folded garment edge, aligning the bias edge with the basting, 1/8 in. to 1/4 in. below the garment edge. Pin the bias, easing or stretching the strip until it fits the edge smoothly, and baste. Place the edge over a pressing cushion with the right side up. Cover the edge with a press cloth and carefully press just the edge and the bias strip. The facing shoule lie smoothly against the wrong side of the garment. If it doesn’t, release the basting and try again. Using a slipstitch or fell stitch, sew the facing to the seam allowance. Trim the bias so it’s an even 3/4 in. wide. To finish the free edge, fole it under 1/4 in., pin and baste. Using a very fine needle, sew the edge to the garment with a loose slipstitch or fell stitch. If the garment is backed, catch the backing but not the garment. Remove the bastings and press lightly. When applying a bias facing to a neckline without an opening, begin at the left shoulder seam and work toward the front neckline(this is the most difficult part of the neckline to face and, in couture, is therefore tackled first). For a bias facing at the armscye, begin at the underarm. Finish by folding one end of the bias wrong sides together on the lengthwise grain. Lightly crease the fold with your thumbnail. Fold the other end under so the folded edges match. Then slipstitch the folds together. BINDINGS An elegant finish suitable for nearly every edge,a binding can be unobtrusive or, in a contrasting fabiric or texture, add dash to your garment. Bindings are made by stitching a strip of fabric to the right side of an edge, wrapping it around the edge and securing it neatly on the underside. Often finished so they’re attractive on both the right and wrong side of the garment, bindings are frequently used on transparent fabrics, twofaced fabrics and on reversible and unlined garments. In order to shape and sew bindings to curved edges easily, most fabric bindings are cut on the true bias at a 45176。 angel to the lengthwise grain. But if the garment edges are straight or almost straight, bingdings can be cut on either the crossgrain or lengthwise grain to enhance the design. The directions below focus on biascut bindings, but they can easily be adapted for nonbias strips and ribbon, although these other bindings do not take the shape of the edge as easily. Selecting the fabric for bindings is particularly important. Lightweight materials like crepe, sation, chiffon and voile are suitable for bindings on almost any shell fabric. If you wan a heavier bound edge, you could use fabrics like wool, ribweaves, cottons and sturdy linens. But be aware that the heavier the binding fabric, the more difficult it is to work with and control its bulk, particularly at the ends. Most bindings are finished about 1/4 in. wide, but on very lightweight fabrics they can be as narrow as narrow as 1/8 in., and on bulky or heavy fabrics they can be as wide ae 1in. Bindings can be made with either a singlelayered, open strip of fabric or with a doublelayered, folded strip. Obviously, bindings sewn from a double layer are stiffer and thicker because they contain more fabric, an advantage when that binding fabric is lightweight or when you want a sharply defined edge. But if the binding fabric is heavy or bulky or if the garment edge is designed to hang softly, a singlelayered binding is more suitable. Generally, bindings are not applied until the garment is almost finishe— that is, until appropriate interfacings and backings have already been set, the garment fitted and all corrections made. On lined couture garments, however, the binding is frequently applied first by hand or machine, and finished wirh the lining, which covers the raw edge of the bingding.. CUTTING AND STITCHING THE BIAS STRIP If you lived in Italy, you would visit your favorite merceria, or sewingnitions store, when you wanted to trim a design with bias bindings (I’ve looked in stores in France and England but hanve never seen fabric sold in this way). There you would find a large assortment of fabrics already cut with one edge on the bias. After you chose your fabric, a salesperson would cut a parallelogram for you, which would be rea