紡織品整理clappt課件(編輯修改稿)
2025-05-30 03:32 本頁(yè)面
【文章內(nèi)容簡(jiǎn)介】 步定形。煮 洗 煮 先洗后煮：油污多織物 染后煮呢：復(fù)煮，色牢度高織物用。 洗呢 洗呢 ：毛織物在洗滌液中洗除雜質(zhì)的加工過程。 目的 ：除去和毛油、抗靜電劑、漿料等物質(zhì)，還有沾的油污、灰塵。 洗呢原理 ：利用洗滌劑對(duì)毛織物的潤(rùn)濕和滲透，加以機(jī)械擠壓、揉搓，使呢干凈。同時(shí)，防止羊毛損傷、呢氈化，漂清等。 洗呢設(shè)備 繩狀洗呢機(jī)，平幅洗呢機(jī)，連續(xù)洗呢機(jī)。 洗呢工藝 洗滌劑 肥皂、雷米邦 A、凈洗劑 LS、凈洗劑 209等 溫度 ~40℃ 左右。 時(shí)間 30~60min(粗紡織物 )， 45~90min.(精紡織物 ) pH值 7~9 浴比 1:5~10（精紡織物）， 1： 5~6（粗紡織物） 滾筒壓力，清水洗 5~6次。 縮呢 縮呢 ：在一定的濕、熱、機(jī)械力作用下，使毛織物產(chǎn)生縮絨氈合的加工過程。 目的 ：使毛織物收縮，質(zhì)地緊密厚實(shí)，強(qiáng)力提高，彈性、保暖性增加?？椢锉砻娈a(chǎn)生絨毛，遮蓋織物組織，改進(jìn)織物外觀，并獲得豐滿、柔軟的手感。粗紡毛織物工序，少數(shù)精紡毛織物輕縮呢。 原理 ：羊毛會(huì)氈縮 在水中無定向外力作用下，纖維相互纏結(jié)，集合體變密實(shí)，絨毛突出，織物尺寸減小，織紋模糊，強(qiáng)力增加。 Fulling Fulling is a mechanical finish applied to wool and to some wool blends to produce a pact, closely constructed fabric. It is used primarily on woven fabrics. When a wool fabric is removed from the loom, it bears little resemblance to the fabric the consumer will see. It is loose or open in weave and hard and stiff in texture. The fulling process helps to pull yarns together and to soften them at the same time. Moisture, heat, and friction are used. The same action occurs in felting, and if wool fabrics are handled too roughly during fulling, they may bee more like a felt than the intended fabric. 氈縮機(jī)理 縮呢設(shè)備 滾筒式縮呢機(jī)， 復(fù)式縮呢機(jī)， 洗縮聯(lián)合機(jī)。 定向摩擦效應(yīng)。順鱗片摩擦系數(shù)小，逆鱗片摩擦系數(shù)大，加之羊毛彈性、卷曲等，纖維咬合，造成氈縮現(xiàn)象。 酸性縮呢 pH4 ~50℃ 中性縮呢 pH4~8 堿性縮呢 pH9~10 35~40℃ 縮呢工藝 縮呢劑作用 ：使纖維潤(rùn)濕溶脹，鱗片張開，潤(rùn)滑纖維促進(jìn)纖維移動(dòng)，咬合，產(chǎn)生縮絨效果。 酸性縮呢劑 中性縮呢劑 堿性縮呢劑 硫酸或醋酸。手感、光澤差些 合成洗滌劑。纖維損傷小，手感硬 肥皂或合成洗滌劑，碳酸鈉。手感軟，光澤好。 縮率：粗紡織物，經(jīng) 10~30%，緯 15~35%。 精紡織物，經(jīng) 3~5%，緯 5~10%。 脫水及烘呢定幅 離心脫水機(jī) 效率高，脫水不勻，有折痕 真空吸水機(jī) 平幅脫水，織物有伸長(zhǎng)。 軋水機(jī) 平幅軋水，效率高，勻 脫水 含濕率30~ 40% 烘呢定幅 多層熱風(fēng)針板拉幅烘干機(jī)： 精紡 75~80℃ ，粗紡 8090℃ Tentering Tentering is a mechanical straightening of fabrics. It is a part of many finishing operations such as mercerizing, resin finishing, drying, and shrinkage control. A clip or pin tenter (or stenter) frame may be used. The fabric is held horizontally by each selvage between clips or on pins. The chains holding the fabric gradually move apart to the desired width for the cloth before they enter drying units or other processes requiring tentered cloth. 三、毛織物的干整理 起毛、刷毛、剪毛、電壓、蒸呢等。 起毛 利用鋼針或刺果從織物表面拉出一層絨毛。 鋼絲起毛機(jī)，刺果起毛機(jī)，起毛、剪毛聯(lián)合機(jī)。 起毛方法 干起毛 毛短、多，呢面粗糙 濕起毛 毛長(zhǎng)，順毛織物預(yù)起毛 水起毛 長(zhǎng)毛，波紋。 水對(duì)纖維作用 刷毛與剪毛 刷毛：除去雜物，使絨毛豎立。 剪毛：粗紡織物，毛齊整。精紡，潔凈、平整 蒸刷機(jī) 剪毛刀 Shearing ? Shearing is a mechanical finish applied to fabric of most natural fibers and to a relatively large proportion of fabrics from staplelength man –made fibers. Shearing involves cutting off undesirable surface fiber ends to even the map or pile of the fabric surface. ? After preliminary singeing and subsequent processing, fiber ends or loose fibers may protrude from the fabric surface. Shearing removes these ends and permits a clear view of the weave or knit construction. For pile or highly napped surfaces, shearing evens the surface to provide a uniform appearance. Special controls used on the shearing machine make it possible to produce a variety of designs in which there are both cut and uncut pile sections. ? The shearing machine has a wide, spiral cylinder to which cutting blades are attached. It resembles a lawn mower in action. The fabric passes over brushes that raise the fiber ends or the fiber nap and then moves under the cutting blades whe
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