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brushing the surface. Nap feels smooth when touched in one direction, rough in the other. Nap Down: Nap will feel smooth when touched in this direction, color will appear dull or grayed. Nap Up: Nap will feel rough when touched in this direction, color will appear richer in this direction but nap will bee crushed with wear. Natural Fibers: Fibers that are of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin. Examples are wool, linen, silk, cotton, jute, hemp, ramie, cashmere, and mohair. No Band Collar: Non Roll Elastic: See definition for Elastic Non Roll NonWoven Fabric: Fabric constructed of fibers that have been held together by thermal, chemical, solvent, mechanical action, or binations of these. O OffGrain: 1) Fabric: Warp and filling yarns on woven fabrics are not at right angles to each other. 2) Pattern: Straight of grain line on pattern is not placed parallel with the warp and/or fill yarns on fabric. OnGrain: 1) Fabric: Warp and filling yarns on woven fabrics intersect each other at right angles. 2) Pattern: Straight of grain line on pattern is placed parallel with the warp and/or fill yarns of fabric. OnSeam Pocket: Pocket opening is placed in a seam of the garment with an interior pocket bag. Open Cut Work: Openwork embroidery done by drawing out horizontal threads of fabric, then tying the vertical threads in groups to produce open spaces, OR, decorative stitching that holds together two closely spaced folded edges of fabric with ornamental stitches. Overedge: See definition for Hem. Overlock Seam: Stitches in the 500 series. Oversized Fit: Fit of clothing is very loose to body and has a generous amount of ease. P Paired Plaid/Stripe: Refers to placement of plaid/stripe being the same on both sides of garment. Panels (Sweater): A sweater body front, back, or sleeve knit into the required shape or length. May be either cut and sew or knit to shape. Patch Pocket: A separate piece of material that is attached to a garment on all side。 Eye Tape: A fastening tape that has metal hooks on one side and either and embroidered or metal loop on the other side. Hook amp。 Bar: A closure using a set of shaped metal plates, one which is curved to form a broad hook, the other a raised bar. Hook amp。 measurement result given in a %. Elastic Ends of Rubber: The number of strands of rubber used to manufacture a particular size or quality of elastic. Elastic Gauge: Thickness of rubber (The lower the number the stronger the rubber) Elastic Knitted: Fabric construction for interlocking series of looper of one or more yarns. Materials normally used are textured polyester yarns or textured nylon and bare spandex or extruded rubber. Made on a flat bed crochet machine. Elastic Modulus: Power (resistance to stretch), strength or tension of the elastic. The force required to pull the elastic to a specific stretch/length, determines the amount of pressure the elastic is putting on the wearer?s body. Elastic Non Roll: Elastic that has enough width wise stability so it does not bend, roll or crush across its width when worn. Made with monofilament thread. Elastic Recovery: Ability of elastic to retain its original length immediately after stretching and releasing. After stretching the elastic to its maximum capability. The elastic must return to 90% to 92% of its original length. Elastic Waistband: See definition for Waistband Elastic Woven: Primarily made up of warp yarns, fill yarns and covered spandex or covered extruded rubber. Generally thicker and denser due to the bulkiness of the covered elastomers and stitch formations. Made on a shuttle loom. Elastomeric: An end of spandex which has been covered or twisted with yarn. Embroidery: Fancy needlework or trimming using colored yarn, floss, cotton, silk or metallic threads. Enclosed Seam: See definition for French Seams. Ends of Rubber: The number of strands of rubber used to manufacture a particular size or quality of elastic. Execution: See definition for Construction. Exposed Seam: Seams in which the seam allowances are visible on the outside of the garment. Exposed Zipper: Zipper is set along folded edges of seam line with zipper teeth visible. Expression of Fit: Designer?s vision of how the garment should fit on the human form. The key elements of fit that are related to the styling of the garment include, but are not limited to, where the garment sits on the waist of the body and how tight fitting a garment is. It is possible for a garment to achieve an excellent fit, but still not have achieved the designer?s vision for fit. Extended Tab Waistband: See definition for Waistband. Eyelet: Small circular plastic or metal tube secured to fabric to form an opening. Can also be formed by a round embroidered opening. Can be decorative or used with cord. F Fabric: Cloth made of textile yarns or fibers by weaving, knitting, lace making, braiding, ting, or felting. Can also be made by bonding or nonwoven methods. Fabric Hand Feel: See definition for Hand. Face: Surface of fabric designated in the weaving/knitting process to be used as the outside of a finished garment. Facing: Piece of fabric used to finish a raw edge. Facings are turned to the inside of a garment enclosing seams. Faggoting: Openwork embroidery done by drawing out horizontal threads of fabric, then tying the vertical threads in groups to produce open spaces, OR, decorative stitching that holds together two closely spaced folded edges of fabric with ornamental stitches. Fashioning Marks (Sweater): Raised “twists” that results from transferring loops to adjacent needles to decrease the width of the knitted panel, usually occurs in a series at neckl