【正文】 正如其名稱。 擴展的 貼邊 廣泛用于時裝，因為 這樣的貼邊折疊好比成型的貼邊和斜紋的貼邊 更柔軟平坦。當服裝邊緣是 平直的，可重復使用貼邊 。擴大的貼邊類型相當于下擺一樣，指的是服裝的延伸，當然了，肯定是本布面料做 的。 有三種類型的貼邊：擴大的、成型的、斜紋的。 不像 貼邊 ， 懸掛狀態(tài)下不貼近 身體， 不 影響服裝的整體造型 ，飾面 經常 順著 身體的曲線，并巧妙地影響了服裝的輪廓。 手工 縫制在 成品 中 可見，然而，這只是一個用來完成傳統(tǒng)的時裝服裝邊緣的手工 藝 的一部分。 因為 服裝的勞動力成本和材料費用在預期結果中退居第二，服裝邊緣并不總是用最簡單的方法處理或是用經常在成衣制作和家庭作坊縫紉時的方法處理。 折邊和飾面都只有一面可以看見在服裝上（通常在服裝底部）。 飾面可 以被 切割為單獨的 部分，是 縫制 在 服裝 上的已 完成 的 彎曲或 有 形 狀的邊緣。飾面，在另一方面，適用于服裝上面上下垂直的邊緣。 雖然貼邊、飾面和滾邊都是邊緣處理工藝，但是它們在功能上有些許差別。顯然，一件定制的服裝和一件晚禮服對服裝工藝的 要求都是有明顯不同的。舉個例子，如果一條裙子的底擺是筆直的，它可以用貼邊、飾面或滾邊中的任意一種方式處理，但是，如果這個邊緣呈現(xiàn)均勻彎曲狀或貝殼狀或其他不規(guī)則的形狀，它將需要采用飾面的工藝處理。在服裝上廣泛 使用的邊緣處理方式有三種：貼邊、飾面和滾邊 。這些邊緣包括 領邊 以及 夾克 衫 、外套、 襯衫的前門襟等。 on armholes and the edges of sleeves, under the arm。 angle, the finished bindings will ripple, twist and pucker. The best way to establish the true bias is with an isosceles right triangle— a drafting tool that has two sides of equal length with a 90176。 and the preferences of the individual wearer and the designer. For example, if the bottom edge of a dress is straight, it might be pleted with a hem, a facing or a binding. But if this edges is asymmetrical, curved, scalloped or otherwise unusually shaped, it will need to be finished with a facing. Even when the edge is visually the same on the neckline and hem, the two different edges are likely to require slightly different finishes to acmodate the curve at the neckline and the weight of the fabric at the hem. And although it’s obvious that a tailored garment would require very different finishing from an evening gown, even similar designs vorked in dissimilar fabrics would dictate finishes suitable for each fabric. Although hems, facings and bindings are all edge finishes, each has a slightly different function. Hems are generally used on the lower edges of a garment or garment section (for example, a sleeve) and many help the garment hang attractively by adding weight to the edge. Facings, on the other hand, are applied to the upper and vertical edges of a garments. Bindings can be used on upper, lower or vertical edges, but they’re used most often to replace facings rather than hems. Facings can be cut as separate sections and sewn to the garment to finish curved or shaped edges. Or, when used on edges that are straight or only slightly curved, they can be nothing more than a wide hem allowance, in which case they’re called extended facings. Both hems and facings are visible on only one side— usually the underside— of the garment. Bindings, by contrast, are separate strips of fabric that encase the garment edge and finish both sides of the garment attractively. Because in couture the cost of labor and materials takes a back seat to the desired results, edges are not always finished with the simplest method or the one most often used in readytowear construction or home sewing. Whatever the finishing method, hems, facings and bindings can be sewn entirely by hand or machine work.. The hand work visible on the finished product, however, is only a fraction of the hand work used to finish the edges of the traditional couture garment. FACINGS Facings, like hems, are designed to finish the edge of the garment. Unlike hems, which hang free of the body and affect the garment’s hang more than its overall shape, faced edges frequently fit the body’s curves and subtly affect the garment’s silhouette. Used on garment openings, curved edges and shaped edges like jacket lapels, facings contribute significantly to an overall impression of a wellconstructed garment. There are three types of facings: extended, shaped and bias. Two of these— shaped and bias facings— are cut separately from the garment and can be sewn from selffabric or lightweight lining fabrics. The extended facing is cut as an extension of the garment section like a plain hem and is, of course, selffabric. The extended facing is nothing more than a 1/2in. to 2in. hem and is sewn exactly like a plain hem (see pp. 6364). When the garment edge is on the lengthwise grain, the extended facing duplicates the shape and grain of the edge it faces. But when the edge is slanted on a bias or has a slight curve, the facing can’t duplicate the grain and may have to be eased, stretched or clipped to fit the edge smoothly. The extended facing is used extensively in couture because the folded edge of this facing is flatter and more supple than the seamed edges of shaped and bias facings and consequently drapes better. Edges with extended facings are generally interfaced and stabilized so that they maintain their original shape for the life of the garment. As its name suggests, the shaped facing is cut to duplicate the shape of the edge it faces and ususlly duplicates the grain as well. This facing is often used on necklines and on edges intended to have a crisp, constructed look, and it’s always used on intricately shaped edges like a scalloped hem. The bias facing is a strip cut on the true bias. Because it doesn’t duplicate the grain of the edge it faces, this facing must itself be shaped to fit the edge. Bias facings are made from lightweight fabrics and produce narrow, inconspicuous facings. In cousture, more than one type of facing is often used on a single garment or even on a single edge. The pink gazar dress shown above, for example, has extended facings on the front neckline and back opening with shaped facings on the front neckline and back opening with shaped facings on the back neckline. Similarly, the jacker on has a shaped facing on the upper half of the front edge and an extended facing on the lower half of this edge. Before applying any kind of facing, examine the garment’s fit to determine whether the edge needs to be help in or stabilized with a stay tape (see pp. 4950) or interfaced (see p. 68). Once you’ve handled th