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服裝基本制造流程(參考版)

2025-04-10 21:41本頁面
  

【正文】 vacuum adjustment(c) Pressing methodFinal inspection – tolerance and the standard of quality control will affect the inspection method used to measure the acceptance of the order, this is strongly subject to the management policy:(a) Workmanship(b) Dimension(c) Packing detailsPacking may have two major functions: distribution and merchandising. The basic types of package forms used in apparel and allied products are bags, boxes, cartons amp。 needle heat and so on. III) Salesman sample (size set)Preparation: a) Material: must use the same material without any alternation. b) Colour: Any colour selected from customers in the order sheet. c) Accessories: must use the exact requested accessories.Inspection: a) Dimension: measurement should be kept as the production sheet (size specification). b) Silhouette: must be kept according to the design illustration. c) Design detail: should follow exactly the production design sheet.d) Fitting: Take care of the effect of cutting whether the pattern could make accordingly and it is in proportion to the human figure and its drafting effect. e) Sewing faultsIV) Shipment sample (Production sample)Everything must be conformed to the customer’s requirements. 4) Pattern gradingIt is the drafting process of enlarging or diminishing a style pattern into patterns for other sizes. The function of grading is to see that this is acplished with proper fit for the other size without changing the style sense of the original model.5) Marker makingBefore the cutter can begin his cutting operation, he has to have some plan of operations. Marking the fabric itself, in its simplest form, was originally marking in round a pattern the shape to cut by means of crayon, chalk or other making implement. The first step in calculating the optimum marker design is determining the basic geometric design of the marker. This is done by inspecting the grain markings on the patterns. The second step is to list or note the length of the warp and filling dimension in each pattern. Since most patterns are not rectangular, this means that two or more measurements must be taken for each dimension. The third step differs slightly with respect to the basic design type. The patterns that widths are marked in parallel formation across to the width. In patterns with tapered widths, maximum interlock efficiency results by inverting the alternate patterns in a manner, which interlocks a narrow width with a wide width. The marker makes notes the upright and inverted correlation’s required equalling the full width of the fabric. The application of pattern engineering is the shifting of seams to make the best use of cloth width. In one case, three trouser backs could be laid in 43” and four trouser fronts in 47”. The cloth width available was 45” and by shifting the side seam adding1/2” to the backs and taking 1/2” from the fronts, it was possible to lay three backs and four front in exactly 45”. 6) SpreadingThe cloth is brought to the cutting table to be laid, ply on ply, or in single plies. The cloth may be spread on the table manually, or by machine. The procedure of cloth spreading is the placing of the material on the cutting table, laying one piece upon another, to a predetermined length. In giving consideration to the use of machinery, volume is usually the deciding factor, although quality and handling may be factors as well. Spreading is made easier by the use of spreading machines. Good spreading should result in a lay, in which each ply lies perfectly flat, without tension.7) CuttingAfter spreading, the markingin must be carried out, so that the cutter will know what shapes and in what manner he is to cut up the lay. Markingin may be done by marking directly on to the cloth, using perforated markers or by using paper markers. After markingin the cutting operation is carried out. This may be by means of a portable cutting machine to do the entire operation, or dissecting the lay into sections with a cutting machine, and then cutting it on a bandknife. For some applications it is possible to cut the entire lay by using a diepress machine. After the various parts have been cut, the cut parts are passed into the sewing room. Various pieces of equipment are used during the procedure of spreading, marking and cutting. 8) FusingIt is a method of joining fabric parts using techniques similar to pressing. Just as pressing uses heat, pressure and moisture to obtain its effect, so fusing uses heat, pressure and sometimes moisture, but during a measured time span, to obtain to its effect. The aim of fusing is to bond interlining to outer fabric in such areas as collar, cuffs,
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