【正文】 識(shí)。八、 論文協(xié)作進(jìn)度安排3月24 開題報(bào)告3月4月底 論文大致完成4月5月中旬 論文修改完善5月下旬 全部完成九、 參考文獻(xiàn)：[1] 王維堤,《中國(guó)服飾文化》，圖書館目錄[M]，上海，上海古籍出版社,[出版日期不詳][2] 張志春,《中國(guó)服飾文化》，圖書館目錄[M]，北京，中國(guó)紡織出版社，2009[3] 譚蟬雪,《中世紀(jì)服飾》，圖書館目錄[M]，上海:華東師范大學(xué)出版社,2010[4] 陳茂同,《中國(guó)歷代帝王冕服研究》，圖書館目錄[M]，天津,百花文藝出版社,2005[5] 江冰《中國(guó)服飾文化》，圖書館目錄[M]，廣州，廣東人民出版社,2009[6] 華梅《人類服飾文化全書，服飾與禁忌》, 圖書館目錄[M]，朱國(guó)新，北京，中國(guó)時(shí)代經(jīng)濟(jì)出版社,2010[7] 程悅杰,《服裝色彩創(chuàng)意設(shè)計(jì)》， 圖書館目錄[M]，上海， 東華大學(xué)出版社,2007[8] 劉恩御,《色彩科學(xué)與影視藝術(shù)》，圖書館目錄[M] ， 北京，北京廣播學(xué)院出版社，2002[9] 外文翻譯TorontoVeniceThe BanquetYe Yan(ChinaHong Kong)By Derek ElleyWith: Ziyi Zhang, Ge You, Daniel Wu, Zhou Xun, Ma Jingwu, Huang Xiaoming. (Mandarin dialogue)Auds not up to the mark on their Shakespeare needn39。t worry, as script only uses the barest framework of Hamlet, and even diminishes the title role. In making the Gertrude character into a leading player alongside King Claudius, and a venomous one at that, it39。s also equally infused with the spirit of Macbeth. As well as for Feng, picture is a sizable gamble for Beijing production house Huayi Brothers and the Mainland industry in general. Latter has bee increasingly dependant on big budget spectacles, and another opulent costume drama, Zhang Yimou39。s Curse of the Golden Flower, is due soon. Banquet39。s tab is reportedly around 150 million yuan ($18 million), big by Chinese standards though less than half of Flower39。s reported figure. Crew includes several talents from international hits, including action director Yuen Woping (Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon), . Tim Yip (ditto) and poser Tan Dun (ditto, plus Hero). Yip39。s massive, vaulted sets and funereal colors deep blacks, plus shades of reds and golds are impressive in the short term, as is Tan39。s powerful, barbaric music。 but over the long span of 129 minutes, there39。s not enough relief or variety. Yuen39。s occasional, brief action scenes lack originality. First and foremost, The Banquet is a tragedy, not an actioner. Setting is the Period of Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms (. 90760), a time of royal instability in the north and warring states in the south. In an unnamed kingdom, there lives Li (Feng regular Ge You, in the Claudius role), who39。s murdered his brother and bee emperor. Li long lusted after his brother39。s young wife, Wan (Zhang, as Gertrude), whose sexual needs were barely catered for during her marriage。 but she only has eyes for her stepbrother, Wu Luan (Daniel Wu, a kind of Hamlet). Li sends soldiers south to kill Wu Luan, who was banished there by the original emperor. In a memorable set piece set in a multitiered bamboo theater in a forest that mixes action and theatrical mime (with players wearing masks), Wu Luan fights off his assassins and heads north to seek revenge on Li. Opening reels stress the sensuality of Wan and brutality of Li as both engage in a slow power waltz. Wan finally agrees to marry Li and bee empress, but at the coronation party Wu Luan and his troupe mime a drama in which a king is murdered by poison in the ear. Enraged, Li banishes Wu Luan, much to the distress of Qing Nu (Zhou Xun) who loves him and the jealousy of Wan. When Li decides to throw a banquet for his ministers, Wu Luan returns just when Wan is also planning to murder Li. Qing Nu39。s father also has his own plans. Final halfhour, set during the banquet, is certainly gripping, as the pieces e together and slaughter of Jacobean proportions ensues. Till then, however, pic only es alive spasmodically, not helped by the principals39。 slow, pregnant delivery of their lines, lack of acting chemistry (normally a strength of Feng39。s pics), and the unremittingly gloomy look. Even when the action goes outside, Feng and lenser Zhang Li still maintain the heavy color chiaroscuro. Zhou, in a relatively small role, grows in her character as the film progresses, though her more everyday speaking voice is at odds with the elevated tone adopted by other principals. Ge is fine as the manipulative Li, and Hong Kong thesp Wu adequate in the slimly drawn part of Wu Luan. Main problem is Zhang, who carries herself with all the bearing of a powerhungry, lovelorn empress but doesn39。t project the necessary charisma of an evil queen. Role requires a more experienced, older actress to fill the screen, even though her perf is OK on a purely technical level. 多倫多威尼斯夜宴Ye Yan（中國(guó)香港）（本刊作者）德里克 Elley 演員:章子怡,葛優(yōu)、吳彥祖、周迅、馬精武、黃小明。(普通話對(duì)話)不符合他們的莎士比亞中的馬克是不用擔(dān)心的,因?yàn)橹恍枰勘葋喌膭”究蚣?甚至”哈姆雷特”,減少了卡門這一角色。在作出將格特魯?shù)碌慕巧D(zhuǎn)換到為核心人物克勞迪斯國(guó)王時(shí),一個(gè)一樣惡毒的,它也同樣灌注了”麥克白”的精神。以及馮,影片對(duì)北京制作公司華誼兄弟和大陸生產(chǎn)產(chǎn)業(yè)來說是一筆相當(dāng)大的賭博。后者已經(jīng)變成越來越依賴于大預(yù)算的壯觀景象,另一個(gè)則依賴于華麗的服裝戲劇,張藝謀的《滿城盡帶黃金甲》,快到期了。據(jù)報(bào)道夜宴的制作費(fèi)大約150億元人民幣(合18億美元),從中國(guó)人的眼光來看雖然只有不到所報(bào)道的《滿城盡帶黃金甲》的數(shù)字的一半。全體人員包括一些國(guó)際級(jí)的天才家，包括動(dòng)作導(dǎo)演袁和平《臥虎藏龍》),導(dǎo)演申先生。蒂姆業(yè)集團(tuán)(同上)—作曲家譚遁(同上,加上“英雄”)。葉氏巨大的葬禮上, 拱形集和葬禮上的顏色—深黑色，再加上穿得光鮮的陰影——在短期內(nèi)都是令人印象深刻的,正如譚元元的強(qiáng)大,野蠻的音樂,但在長(zhǎng)達(dá)129分鐘的一段時(shí)間跨度里,沒有足夠的安慰和變化。袁偶爾、短暫的動(dòng)作場(chǎng)面缺乏創(chuàng)意。首先,“夜宴”是一場(chǎng)悲劇,而不是一個(gè)動(dòng)作片。故事是設(shè)置在五代時(shí)期(公元90760十國(guó)),一個(gè)皇室不穩(wěn)定的北方與南方的戰(zhàn)國(guó)的時(shí)代。在一位未透露姓名的王國(guó),那里住著個(gè)厲帝(馮小剛安排葛優(yōu)出演,克勞迪亞斯的角色),謀殺了他的兄長(zhǎng),并成為了皇帝。厲帝貪戀他哥哥年輕的妻子,婉兒(章子怡,格特魯?shù)碌慕巧?, 在她的婚姻里她個(gè)人的需求很少被考慮,但是她的眼里只有他，無鸞(吳彥祖,哈姆雷特的角色)。厲帝派羽林衛(wèi)去殺被先帝放逐的無鸞,。一個(gè)令人難忘的布景—設(shè)定在森林里的一個(gè)多層次的竹影院—混合戰(zhàn)斗功能和戲劇啞劇(扮演者都戴著面具),無鸞與刺客抗?fàn)幪用摵蟛⒈鄙蠈で髮?duì)厲帝的報(bào)復(fù)。感性的開場(chǎng)強(qiáng)調(diào)婉后的欲望和殘暴的厲帝好像一個(gè)緩慢的充滿權(quán)力的華爾茲。婉后最后終于同意嫁給厲帝,成為皇后,但在加冕典禮這一過程中中無鸞和他的劇團(tuán)上演了一場(chǎng)啞劇演出,關(guān)于先帝是因?yàn)槎疚锎等攵兄卸径赖膯?。厲帝惱羞成?放逐無鸞,被婉后嫉妒而深愛著無鸞的苦難青女（周迅飾演）要求一同前往。當(dāng)厲帝決定為他的大臣們舉辦一個(gè)宴會(huì)時(shí),無鸞回來的時(shí)候婉后也計(jì)劃著謀殺厲帝。青女的父親也有自己的計(jì)劃。晚宴期間，終場(chǎng)前半小時(shí),肯定是引人入勝的,當(dāng)碎片聚集，詹姆士一世這種殺戮的比例便會(huì)接踵而至。到那時(shí),然而,影片只是來自于斷續(xù)的活潑氣氛,而對(duì)主體的減緩是沒有幫助的，富有意義的傳遞他們的臺(tái)詞，缺乏化學(xué)性的表演（馮小剛影片中經(jīng)常用到的強(qiáng)度）和堅(jiān)持不懈地陰郁的表情。即使這一行動(dòng)是外在的,馮小剛和攝影指導(dǎo)張麗仍保持沉重的色彩明暗法。周迅,一個(gè)相對(duì)小的角色, 雖然她每天說話的聲音與主體人物歡快的音調(diào)是有差別的，但是卻按她的個(gè)性生長(zhǎng)在發(fā)展的電影圈里,葛優(yōu)飾演的操縱手厲帝挺好的,香港演員吳彥祖充分形象的演出了無鸞的軟弱。關(guān)鍵是章子怡,攜帶著自己所有的委屈與欲望,失戀后卻計(jì)劃成為一個(gè)必然魅力的邪惡的皇后。角色的要求需要一個(gè)更老練,年長(zhǎng)的女演員去演繹屏幕中婉后的味道,雖然她可以基于一種純粹的技術(shù)水平來達(dá)到效果。Colororcolour(seespelling differences) is thevisual perceptual propertycorresponding inhumansto the categories calledred,green, blueand others. Color derives from thespectrum of light(distribution of160