【正文】
;C—縫邊常數(shù);X—鞋幫對(duì)應(yīng)尺寸已知數(shù)據(jù)見(表24)表24 鞋楦尺寸和鞋幫尺寸表項(xiàng)目AP1APAA1′AA1AA2′AA2AA3′AA3AA4′AA4AA5′AA5AA6′AA6BB1′BB1鞋楦尺寸5562646055555675鞋幫尺寸5865676058585978項(xiàng)目BB2′BB2CC1′CC1CC2′CC2DD1′DD1DD2′DD2上斜長′上斜長下斜長′下斜長鞋楦尺寸8185868787293303鞋幫尺寸858888301318(2)測量方法a. 90%腳長部位以前的楦頭部分的測量。見表26(1) 平面設(shè)計(jì)的原理 ①控制線和控制點(diǎn)的確定 幫樣的平面設(shè)計(jì)法,最重要的是控制線的選擇和控制點(diǎn)的確定。(1)楦底樣各長度部位的確定 楦底樣設(shè)計(jì)作業(yè)測得的腳長為248,依次數(shù)據(jù)見表21 表21 楦底樣各長度部位(mm)楦底樣各長度部位計(jì)算方法,mm楦底樣長腳長+放余量-后容差247+144=257腳趾端點(diǎn)部位腳長-后容差2474=243拇趾外突點(diǎn)部位90%腳長-后容差2224=218小趾外突點(diǎn)部位78%腳長-后容差1934=188第一跖趾部位%腳長-后容差1794=175第五跖趾部位%腳長-后容差1574=152腰窩部位41%腳長-后容差1014=97踵心部位18%腳長-后容差444=40注:表中各特征部位的計(jì)算公式是:部位點(diǎn)=腳長部位系數(shù)-后容差 (2)楦底樣各部位寬度的確定 楦底樣各部位寬度,對(duì)一般用鞋,必須在腳印與輪廓之間。熟練了解膠鞋的幾種成型方法;了解膠鞋的質(zhì)量問題及改進(jìn)措施。比如,25號(hào)的鞋就表明適合腳長250mm的人穿著。上述各檔的中間號(hào)為:11號(hào)、14號(hào)、18號(hào)、21號(hào)、23號(hào)、25號(hào)及28號(hào)。在相同長度號(hào)中有不同的肥瘦型,兒童有3個(gè)型,成年男女有5個(gè)型。凡腳長在248~252mm(居中值為250mm)者均穿25號(hào)鞋;腳長在253~257mm(居中值為255mm)者均穿25號(hào)鞋,其它類推。1982年以后,我國頒布國家標(biāo)準(zhǔn),正式推行新的中華人民共和國統(tǒng)一鞋號(hào)。2.解放鞋壓延底布面輕便鞋又稱解放鞋。鞋眼是鋅、鋁鍍鎳金屬或塑料制成,用以連接鞋幫、鞋帶,使之緊裹腳部??p線用以縫制鞋幫各布制件,使其連成一體。是用本色帆布、細(xì)布或斜紋布制成。鞋眼襯布可加固鞋眼,防止脫落,并能增強(qiáng)鞋幫穿用過程中的抗扯裂性。(10)沿口布。鞋帶為兩端帶有金屬或塑料包頭的編織帶。包頭能保護(hù)腳趾,防止鞋頭部塌癟,并增強(qiáng)鞋幫頭部的抗撕裂性能。內(nèi)圍條兩面光平,寬度不等。(3)內(nèi)底布。大底是長球鞋的主要組成部件,它承受人體跑、跳、行走、工作時(shí)的全部力量。 3.按鞋面材料分類有布面膠鞋、膠面膠鞋、皮革鞋、橡塑鞋等。 (4)冷粘法鞋?,F(xiàn)有兩種工藝:①鞋幫套楦采用一次海綿中底,再貼模壓大底。其品種有:襪套式鞋、農(nóng)業(yè)靴;軍用鞋等。此類鞋均為膠面靴,比較注重外觀和式樣。 (2)體育運(yùn)動(dòng)專用鞋。根據(jù)膠鞋的鞋面所用原材料不同可把膠鞋分為三類:①布面膠鞋;②膠面膠鞋;③其它類膠鞋。 ⑵ last design。 ② by making process: the end of a roller fitting, HTV shoes Molding paste at the end of the legal, lawmolded shoes, shoes, coldstick method (to help pull method) shoes, shoes injection method。主要掌握了膠鞋結(jié)構(gòu)設(shè)計(jì)的基本程序,具體為:⑴腳型測量和分析;⑵楦型設(shè)計(jì);⑶鞋幫和部件設(shè)計(jì);⑷鞋底和膠件設(shè)計(jì)(內(nèi)底布樣板、設(shè)計(jì)大底花紋、設(shè)計(jì)大底厚度、設(shè)計(jì)大底樣板設(shè)計(jì));腳型決定楦型,楦型決定鞋型。鞋的規(guī)格用鞋號(hào)來表示,鞋號(hào)也俗稱鞋碼,它定量標(biāo)志了鞋的長短和肥瘦。了解膠鞋的質(zhì)量問題及改進(jìn)措施。繪制膠鞋的主要部件結(jié)構(gòu)設(shè)計(jì)圖。膠鞋的常見分類方法主要有三種:①按用途分類:生活用鞋 、體育運(yùn)動(dòng)專用鞋 、防雨、雪靴 勞動(dòng)保護(hù)鞋靴; ②按工藝制作方法分類: 滾筒底一次貼合、熱硫化鞋模壓底貼合法、 鞋模壓法鞋、冷粘法(扳幫法)鞋、注塑法鞋;③按鞋的材料分類:布面膠鞋;膠面膠鞋;其它類膠鞋。通過學(xué)習(xí)并了解膠鞋結(jié)構(gòu)設(shè)計(jì)包括:腳型測量、楦型設(shè)計(jì)、鞋型設(shè)計(jì)。s shoes, rubber shoes of the structural design of procedures and methods. Drawing shoes of the main ponents of the structure of the design. Rubber shoes to understand the problem and improve the quality of the measures. And the use of CAD technology. The shoes have a mon classification of the main three: ① by enduse categories: living with shoes, sportspecific shoes, rain, snow boots Footwear labor protection。 other types of rubber shoes. Shoes, shoes with the specifications to that of shoes, Construction of shoes: at the end of sponge in the end, with the end of cloth, with the external, largestalk, Baotou, tongue, shoelaces, shoe upper, cloth along the mouth, eyes lining cloth shoes, cloth, shoes, heel, and suture And care for toe cloth, shoes, eyes, followed by the band. The main features of longshoes is fortable, durable, waterproof, cloth shoes for the representation of species.Through the study and understanding of the structural design of shoes include: measurement of footandlast design, shoe design. The main structure of the rubber shoes have mastered the basic design procedures for concrete: ⑴foot measurement and analysis。 Decisionfootlast, last decisiontype shoes.Key words: Measurement of footandlast design,