【正文】 ,車在左前外側(cè)距下擺 5? 處 3L Jackets have Care Label under powderskirt, set into seam where powderskirt taffeta meets mesh panel. 5? from Left CF. 3L的衣服警示標(biāo)在擋風(fēng)下擺下， tafetta 布和網(wǎng)布的剪接線處。? from flap setting. 前中全擋風(fēng)片至少要有一條豎直的壓線，距擋風(fēng)片縫份 1/4? Please see separate document for TNF Seam Sealing Requirements. TNF 的貼合要求請(qǐng)看另外的材料 Vivian remarks已跟客人澄清沒(méi)有這份文件 2023/4/1 6 General Features總體做工要求 INSULATED JACKETS 隔熱夾克 All insulations must be quilted onto lining at maximum 6 space unless they are already attached to shell per design. A layer of fiber proof taffeta or baffle to be add between tricot pocket bags and insulation. All insulations shall be spread out and relax overnight before cut. DOWN JACKETS鴨絨衣 All down chambers should be filled following approved down All down chamber should use down proof If the shell is used as down chamber and the shell is not down proof, then down proof baffle should be used. 如果某種不能防止鴨絨外露的布被用于鴨絨衣的大身布，那么就要用到防鴨絨露出的隔層 When using Light colored fabrics that might cause a seethru problem to occur with the down, you must use Guann Lin Offwhite colored baffle. All other down products use factory sourced ，為防止色透（能看到鴨絨），必須用非白色的 Guann Lin 的隔層。? ~ 189。? whenever necessary. 3 pass bartack for weak f abrics. 打結(jié)尺寸 ︰ W*H: 1/16? x 3/8?, 需要的時(shí)候長(zhǎng)度可以加長(zhǎng)到 189。? ， 防水拉鍊尾端用平車來(lái)回車 3次加固 . 圖一 圖二 隱藏打結(jié)用在外露式拉鍊 外露式打結(jié)用在拉鏈四周有貼裝飾膠 Vivian remarks客人建議用平車來(lái)回加固 3次比打結(jié)好 ) 2023/4/1 5 General Features 總體做工要求 Common Features:總體做工要求 All eyelets and grommets should be reinforced by shell fabric or washer, whichever most suitable. 合適的時(shí)候，所有 G眼需用本布或塑膠墊片加強(qiáng) .(eyelet gromment都是指 G眼 ) Grommet size mm with single mm shockcord. (應(yīng)是指內(nèi)徑 )的 G眼使用 . Grommet size mm with single 3 mm shockcord or with double mm shockcords. G眼使用 3mm的繩 . 或雙倍 寬的繩 .(shochcords =繩的統(tǒng)稱 ) If applicable, use appropriate sized washer with metal snaps for satisfactory performance. 為運(yùn)動(dòng)時(shí)的安全考慮 ,如果可行的話把大小合適的金屬四合釦和塑膠墊片一起使用 . All buttonholes should be reinforced by interlining. 所有鎖眼要用襯加強(qiáng) . All grossgrain tapes, drawcords, webbing and elastics should have heat cut ends. 所有綢緞?lì)惪棊Ш腕牼o帶都要用熱切 . All shockcord tunnels should be lined with a taffeta tunnel to allow the shockcord to run smoothly. See sketch on page 8. 有 shockcord的繩孔道都需多家ㄧ層 taffeta在孔道內(nèi) ,讓使使用者在使用繩子時(shí)能控制自如 .(可參考第 8頁(yè) ) Vivian remarks客人表示在開(kāi)發(fā)時(shí)可先不加 taffeta,等客人 ments再說(shuō) . All shockcords settings shall be looped and wrapped by 189。? from flap seam to allow seam taping. 拉鏈內(nèi)邊壓線距蓋片壓線 188。其他用 到的隔層有成衣廠自己選擇 9 carbonated ball point needle is remended for down garment sewing. 鴨絨衣的縫製建議用 9 號(hào)圓頭炭針 Factory must calculate correct fabric shrinkage to match down filling 2023/4/1 7 附加的內(nèi)部信息 2023/4/1 8 General Features 總體做工要求 Zipper Cover Standards:拉鏈蓋片做工標(biāo)準(zhǔn) Zipper cover length = 3/8?. 拉鏈蓋片長(zhǎng)為 3/8? Regular Coil Zippers (set under flap) do not get zipper covers. 在口袋蓋片下的常見(jiàn)的尼龍拉鏈不用拉連蓋片 . Reverse Coil Zippers get bottom zipper cover only. (To cover the sharp metal piece)反齒尼龍拉鏈只用下拉鏈蓋片（蓋住金屬片） Pit Zippers should have top and bottom zipper covers regardless of the whether zipper is Coil or Reversed. (Unless zipper is bonded, then there are no zipper covers.)腋拉不管是尼龍還是反齒都要用上下蓋片（如果拉鏈?zhǔn)琴N和的，則不用拉鏈蓋片） Internal Pockets: No zipper covers are needed on any internal zippers. 內(nèi)口袋 ︰ 所有內(nèi)口袋都不用拉鏈蓋片 常規(guī)拉鍊無(wú)須拉鍊蓋片 金屬下止 反齒拉鍊須加下蓋片蓋住拉鍊下止 ,以防下止爪子刮傷人 表布蓋片 2023/4/1 9 General Features 一般做工要求 Zipper Covers vs. Zipper Garage:拉鏈蓋片和拉鏈車庫(kù) Zipper Covers are different from Zipper Zipper covers simply cover the metal zipper stopper. While zipper garages act as a ?garage? for the slider to sit under. 拉鏈蓋片只是蓋住拉鏈的金屬下止，而拉鏈車庫(kù)是用來(lái)放置拉頭的。距左前中 5? 。? above or below yoke seam. TNF 的繡花或熱轉(zhuǎn)印在左前胸和右后肩。?from HPS 前片 logo 距前中 4 189。? Back logo is plaved 4 189。? 處 Front logo is placed 13 189。? from out seam to center of TNF logo 布繡花或熱轉(zhuǎn)印在左臀剪接中間，腰頭下 189。? from collar edge and finishes 1? above hem. 有擋風(fēng)片的夾克 ,其隱藏的前拉要在低于前中開(kāi)口領(lǐng)圍 189。? below collar edge 粘扣帶在領(lǐng)上圍下 188。? to 3 189。 Additional CF Facing 3/4? between the Shell Zipper and Zip In Zippers 在內(nèi)夾克和外夾克的拉鏈中間加間距 3/4? 寬的前內(nèi)貼 2 Chinguards cover inner CF 下顎擋風(fēng)片 需蓋住內(nèi)件前拉 Liner Jacket CF Zipper should be a Reverse Slider 內(nèi)夾克拉鏈的應(yīng)該是用反轉(zhuǎn)拉頭 下顎擋風(fēng)片 內(nèi)前拉 外前拉 2023/4/1 18 Jacket Features夾克一般做工 3Point System for TriClimates 兩件式夾克的表裡固定 Liner Jacket snaps into Shell Jkt at 3 points: CB neck and Cuffs 表裡夾克在後領(lǐng)中及左右袖口三處用扣子固定 Shell Jacket CB Neck lining has 18L Snap Tab and Liner Jacket has CB Neck Spaghetti Loop at exterior 外夾克后領(lǐng)內(nèi)有一 18L的扣子，內(nèi)夾克后領(lǐng)外有一個(gè)環(huán)。帽貼處兩邊各有一個(gè)雞眼。? from flap seam to allow seam taping. See Fig. 1. 拉鏈在包光處理蓋片下面，距剪接縫份 188。如圖 3。如圖所示 。? shell facings and bartacks at both ends 蓋片用 1 188。? from zipper top and ending 189。? ，距下端 189。? cuff tunnel 袖口處有 1? 的鬆緊帶，其中 190。穿過(guò)這個(gè)雞眼進(jìn)入手口袋 Cordlock is loose, no tie downs 棉繩是鬆的不要太緊 Shockcord has cord pull end finish 棉繩尾端有拉頭 The wearer can adjust the hem from inside the pocket bag. 穿者可在口袋內(nèi)調(diào)節(jié)下擺寬度 繩尾在手心袋布里 下擺有雙繩孔時(shí)繩子需進(jìn)入袋布 2023/4/1 34 Jacket Features Dual Hem Cinch Adjustment System with Hidden Push Button Cordlock 下擺繩扣調(diào)節(jié)做工 All fabric shockcord tunnels should have a Taffeta tunnel lining inside hem facing to smoothly channel the cord. See additional details. 所有通道要有 tafetta 布做內(nèi)裡貼邊，這樣繩子就容易調(diào)整繩長(zhǎng) Hem has Shell fabric facing, clean finished and doubles at tunnel 下擺有本布貼邊，包光處理，通道裡兩層表布（這樣裡布或者棉花就不會(huì)被看到） Hem shockcord travels through 3? Shell tunnel 棉繩穿過(guò)繩扣后再透過(guò)長(zhǎng)為 3? 的表布通道 Tunnel is small enough so cord end does not pull out 通道不能太大，棉繩底部拉頭不能被拉出 Hidden cordlocks inside hem tunnel at side seams and are tied down with grosgrain. 通道在側(cè)剪接處，內(nèi)有隱藏的繩扣，繩扣用緞帶固定 Shockcord is set into CF seams. 棉繩車到前中縫份 透視圖 外長(zhǎng) 內(nèi)面圖 下擺有雙繩孔時(shí) 請(qǐng)注意繩尾不可經(jīng)由通道被拉過(guò) 繩尾夾 3”長(zhǎng)孔道 繩 繩扣 織帶 表布 2023/4/1 35 Jacket Features 夾克一般做工 Powderskir