【導(dǎo)讀】attractively.

　　

【正文】 taken into account when deciding the width of the finished bias. Mediumweight fabrics such as fourply silk and silk linen are suitable for bindings as narrow as 1/8 in., lightweight crepes, chiffon and anza can be used. The instructions here are for a finished binding 1/4 in. wide on a neckline. They can be modified to make a very narrow 1/8in. wide binding or one that’s much wider. Begin with a bias strip four times the finished width plus two 1/2in. wide seam allowances.(For a finished binding 1/4 in. wide, for example, the strip will be 2 in. wide) With the wrong sides together, fold the strip in half lengthwise and baste about 1/8 in. from the fold. Lay the strip flat on the table with the fold toward you. Using chalk or pins, mark a line along the length of the strip that is an even distance from the folded edge and equal to twice the finished binding width. (For a 1/4in. wide binding, make 1/2 in. from the fold.) Put a second row of basting through both layers along this line to mark the binding seamline. On the garment, threadtrace the neckline and seamline for the binding, as explained on . Spread the garment flat on the table with the edge to be bound toward you and right side up. Then, using the threadtraced binding seamline as a guide, fold the neck edge of the garment under 1/4 acplish this neatly and without stretching the neckline, clip it as needed and fold under one small section at a time. Match and pin the folede edge of the neckline to the binding seamline on the bias strip (the one father from the folded edge of the bias strip), as shown above. Baste the garment to the binding, using a small fell stitch or slipbasting. Reposition the layers with right sides together. Machinestitch over the basted seamline. Remove the basting and press lightly. Trim away the original threadtraced seam allowance on the neckline to reduce bulk. Wrap the binding around this raw edge. The binding’s folded edge should just meet the stitches line on the wrong side of the neckline, and the finished binding should measure 1/4 in. wide. If it doesn’t, trim the neckline a little more. Grade the seam allowances as needed. Pin the binding in place, setting the pins at an angle with the heads toward the neckline and baste. Hold the edge in one hand with the wrong side toward you, and using a fell stitch, sew the folded edge to the stitched line. FINISHING THE BINDING’S ENDS Bindings often begin and end at garment openings such as neckline plackets and zipper closures. For a smooth, inconspicuous finish, fold the ends of the binding to the wrong side before wrapping the bingding around the edge. Complete the opening and trim away any excess bulk before beginning the binding. Pin the bias to the garment, allowing a 1in. extension of the bias strip on each side of the opening to the wrong side. Trim to about 1/2 in. and sew it with a catchstitch to the wrong sides of the bias strip and garment. Repeat for the other end. If the opening has a hook, eye or button loop, sew it in place now so the end will be hidden between the layers of the binding. On couture and goodquality readytowear garments, bindings applied to edges without openings (for example, circular necklines, armholes, sleeve edges and skirt hems) usually have the ends seamed on grain. Before beginning such bindings, decide where to locate the seam so it will be as inconspicuous as possible on the finished design. On necklines, the seam is usually deemed least conspicuous at the left shoulder。 on armholes and the edges of sleeves, under the arm。 snd, on hems, at the left side seam. Prepare a bias strip that’s long enough to allow for a 4in. tail on each end of the strip. Pin the bias strip to the garment. Fold back one tail on the lengthwise grain with wrong sides of the bias together and pin it in place. Repeat for the other end so the folded edges the folds together. Unpin the bias about 1in. on either side of the basted seamline so you can stitch the basted seam easily, or use a short backstitch to sew the seam by hand. Press the seam open and trim the seam allowances to 1/4 in. Repin the bias to the edge and plete the binding, which encases the raw edges of the seam. 時(shí)裝縫紉技術(shù) 2021年由克萊爾乙沙弗 保留所有權(quán)利 印刷在美國美國 該書最初發(fā)表于 1993年湯頓出版社，公司在精裝 1 英寸 = 厘米 第四章： 服裝邊緣處理工藝 衣服的邊緣如果不以某種方式處理，這件衣服就會顯得混亂和不完整 。這些邊緣包括 領(lǐng)邊 以及 夾克 衫 、外套、 襯衫的前門襟等。他們可以被處理得惹人注目或者成為服裝設(shè)計(jì)的裝飾元素 .。在服裝上廣泛 使用的邊緣處理方式有三種：貼邊、飾面和滾邊 。 邊緣處理方式的選擇取決于許多因素，包括被處理邊緣的形狀，它在服裝上的位置，衣服的風(fēng)格、設(shè)計(jì)和材料，當(dāng)下的流行趨勢以及穿著者和設(shè)計(jì)師的喜好。舉個(gè)例子，如果一條裙子的底擺是筆直的，它可以用貼邊、飾面或滾邊中的任意一種方式處理，但是，如果這個(gè)邊緣呈現(xiàn)均勻彎曲狀或貝殼狀或其他不規(guī)則的形狀，它將需要采用飾面的工藝處理。甚至當(dāng)領(lǐng)口和下擺的邊緣在視覺上要相同時(shí)，兩個(gè)不同邊緣可能需要稍微不同的工藝，以適應(yīng)在領(lǐng)口的曲線和下擺織物的重量。顯然，一件定制的服裝和一件晚禮服對服裝工藝的 要求都是有明顯不同的。甚至于相同的設(shè)計(jì)不同面料的服裝，也需要不同的工藝處理以適應(yīng)其面料。 雖然貼邊、飾面和滾邊都是邊緣處理工藝，但是它們在功能上有些許差別。貼邊通常用于服裝上位置低的邊緣或者該邊緣時(shí)服裝的一部分（例如，袖子）和許多通過增加重量來幫助衣服挺掛的邊緣。飾面，在另一方面，適用于服裝上面上下垂直的邊緣。滾邊即適合用在服裝的上邊緣也適合用在服裝的下邊緣及垂直邊緣，但是通常在滾邊效果比其他兩種處理效果好的時(shí)候才用。 飾面可 以被 切割為單獨(dú)的 部分，是 縫制 在 服裝 上的已 完成 的 彎曲或 有 形 狀的邊緣?；蛘?，當(dāng) 在 上邊緣 ，平直 邊緣 或稍彎曲 邊緣上 使用 時(shí) ，也可以只是一個(gè)寬下擺 的貼邊 ，在這種情況下，他們 被叫做延長的飾面 。 折邊和飾面都只有一面可以看見在服裝上（通常在服裝底部）。滾邊 相反，是單獨(dú)的布條夾住服裝 的邊緣，從服裝的正反面都能看見 。 因?yàn)?服裝的勞動(dòng)力成本和材料費(fèi)用在預(yù)期結(jié)果中退居第二，服裝邊緣并不總是用最簡單的方法處理或是用經(jīng)常在成衣制作和家庭作坊縫紉時(shí)的方法處理。 無論折邊，飾面和 滾邊都 可以通過手工或機(jī)器縫制完全 。 手工 縫制在 成品 中 可見，然而，這只是一個(gè)用來完成傳統(tǒng)的時(shí)裝服裝邊緣的手工 藝 的一部分。 飾面 飾面，就 像 貼邊 ,可被設(shè)計(jì)來完成 服裝 的邊緣 。 不像 貼邊 ， 懸掛狀態(tài)下不貼近 身體， 不 影響服裝的整體造型 ，飾面 經(jīng)常 順著 身體的曲線，并巧妙地影響了服裝的輪廓。 在服裝的 曲 型領(lǐng)上及 夾克 的 翻領(lǐng) 上運(yùn)用飾面時(shí) ， 它給領(lǐng)子塑造了一個(gè)鮮明的廓型，給人以深刻印象。 有三種類型的貼邊：擴(kuò)大的、成型的、斜紋的。其中兩個(gè) —— 成型的及斜紋的，是與服裝分開來的，可用本布或輕薄的里布面料所縫制。擴(kuò)大的貼邊類型相當(dāng)于下擺一樣，指的是服裝的延伸，當(dāng)然了，肯定是本布面料做 的。 擴(kuò) 展 的 貼邊其寬度為 ， 極像 是一個(gè)普通的完全一樣 的 下擺車縫（見6364 頁 ）。當(dāng)服裝邊緣是 平直的，可重復(fù)使用貼邊 。但是，當(dāng)邊緣上有輕微的曲線，不能重復(fù) 使用貼邊時(shí) ， 只要將邊緣進(jìn)行 拉伸或剪輯 ，使 邊緣 流暢， 都可能得到緩解。 擴(kuò)展的 貼邊 廣泛用于時(shí)裝，因?yàn)?這樣的貼邊折疊好比成型的貼邊和斜紋的貼邊 更柔軟平坦。 擴(kuò)展的 飾面 具有 穩(wěn)定 性 ，使 服裝的邊緣能 保持原始 的 形狀 。 正