【導讀】江蘇是中國紡織服裝重要的生產和出口基地。在當前的新國際貿易形勢下，各進口國已經(jīng)在國際貿易中針。工具，嚴重影響了江蘇省乃至中國紡織品出口貿易的發(fā)展。臨的消極影響和嚴峻挑戰(zhàn)。最后從政府、行業(yè)、企業(yè)三大主體角度分別指。出應對不利因素、實現(xiàn)自我提升和進步的對策。紡織業(yè)是我國傳統(tǒng)的主導和支柱產業(yè)，是我國最早開放進入。最完善的產業(yè)之一。中國紡織業(yè)主要集中在沿海地區(qū)，僅江蘇、浙江、廣?？椘髽I(yè)，73%的從業(yè)人員，82%的銷售產值，88%的出口交貨值。10400多家，波司登、紅豆、雅鹿、海瀾之家等品牌聞名遐邇。就業(yè)創(chuàng)收200億元以上。2020年全省紡織服裝業(yè)主營業(yè)務收入10400億。絨、紗、絲、絲織品、化學纖維、布和服裝等都名列全國前茅。

　　

【正文】 oduction and marketing capabilities in order to maximize their inherent advantages to market proximity. In apparel, low skill production jobs have moved to lowcost locations offshore while the more skilled ones have been retained. To successfully adapt to the new environment, US TC industries need to capitalize on their sources of petitive advantage. They need to develop a more flexible operational arrangement, meet high standards in product innovation and generally develop a more changeseeking business culture (Kilduff, 2020). An important survival tool for US TC firms is to expand their potential market by offering new product designs and product categories. Manufacturers 29 must try to bring a steady stream of products to market that are in line with the taste, preferences of the consumer. They can also expand their market potential by offering new product categories. Two of the fastest growing apparel segments in the US, for example, have been the women’s plus and men’s big and tall segments (Driscoll, 2020). Plussize apparel marketing was estimated at $47 billion in 2020 accounting for 20% of total apparel market. It is important to identify the firm’s target customers and assess whether the firm is successfully addressing their needs. US TC firms should target a narrow segment of the market that provides the best opportunity for success. In textiles, the focus should be on a few specialized segments such as carpets, nonwovens and technical textiles. Similarly, apparel producers should increase their focus on core products, reduce vertical integration to shed overhead costs, and establish alliances with other firms to consolidate resources and increase market share. Finally, in view of rising ines and high growth rates in many developing countries such as China, Brazil, and India, there are potential export market opportunities for US textile and apparel products. US export interests may be served by seeking improved access to the retail distribution systems of developing countries. US textile firms should also be able to use Mexico to export to the European Union and other countries, taking advantage of the MexicoEU trade agreement. Since the conclusion of NAFTA, a number of Asian and European firms have produced certain products in Mexico in order to export to the US market. The lion’s share of the benefits from quota elimination is expected to accrue to China. Its low labor cost, high productivity, range and flexibility of services as well as efficient supplier works will make China the supplier of choice. About 87% of apparel executives that participated in a cotton sourcing summit in Miami in February 2020, agreed that China will soon account for 50–90% of all apparel sold in the US market (National Labor Committee, 2020). This means rationalization of production and a massive consolidation of vendors. 30 Other winners are likely to include India and Pakistan in narrow segments of the TC industry. The elimination of quotas is also likely to lead to lower prices for consumers in view of the absence of quota costs which is often a significant part of the cost of TC sold in the US market. Wellknown brands may still hold market value since they are not subject to retail price deflation. It is important for TC firms to evaluate their internal capabilities such as sourcing, manufacturing, logistics, transportation etc. in order to develop an action plan for the postquota world. Exporters from Latin America, Africa and the Caribbean are likely to lose market share to China since they largely pete on price (not quality) and lack the capability to produce high value added products. Even with the introduction of safeguards on a range of products that are of export interest to these countries, their US market share has declined since the phase out of quotas. With the plete removal of quotas in 2020, it is difficult for these countries to pete on price. Since the US government lifted quotas in 2020 on 29 categories, for example, China’s market share (in these categories) jumped from just 9% (2020) to 65% (2020) while prices paid by US retailers (for apparel from China) dropped by 48% (National Labor Committee, 2020). In cotton dressing gowns (quotas removed) China’s share in 2020 jumped from 25% to 39% while that of Caribbean countries fell from 13% to a mere 3%. In the first 12 months after the phase out of quotas, China’s market share in apparel rose by 59% in value while that of many Central and South American countries showed a sharp decline. What are the implications for TC firms in countries that are vulnerable to petition from China? First, they should capitalize on their proximity to the US market. Their ability to offer lower transport cost, lower lead times as well as duty free entry to the US market may attract the fashionoriented segment of the US industry. This will depend on access to good local transport infrastructure to get goods to market as well as advanced telemunications systems to link suppliers and customers. Local firms and governments need to collaborate in creating a climate which is conducive to business and to develop 31 infrastructure to attract and retain TC industries that are so vital in generating exports and employment. Secondly, low wages do not necessarily provide a parative advantage with respect to China. Firms should develop new capabilities in areas in which China does not have a parative advantage (yarn, and silk nonapparel). This requires, inter alia, investment in modern production methods and development of petitive sources of local raw materials. Even in product areas in which China is expanding its exports, developing country suppliers that enhance their skills, technology, supply chains and marketing capabilities (through joint ventures, licensing arrangemen